{"id":101,"date":"2017-10-09T19:59:54","date_gmt":"2017-10-09T19:59:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=101"},"modified":"2017-11-14T10:09:51","modified_gmt":"2017-11-14T09:09:51","slug":"kena","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2017\/10\/09\/kena\/","title":{"rendered":"List druh\u00fd: Ke\u0148a"},"content":{"rendered":"

Mt. Kenya je pln\u00e1 extr\u00e9m\u016f. Vysok\u00e9 teploty padaj\u00ed v noci pod bod mrazu, rozp\u00e1len\u00e9 sk\u00e1ly st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed zele\u0148 lobeli\u00ed a star\u010dek\u016f. Stejn\u011b tak je to, zd\u00e1 se, s celou Ke\u0148ou.
\nKdy\u017e p\u0159ed \u010dasem Ke\u0148a \u00fapln\u011b zak\u00e1zala igelitov\u00e9 s\u00e1\u010dky a ta\u0161ky, mohlo se zd\u00e1t, \u017ee je to pokrokov\u00e1 „zelen\u00e1“ zem\u011b. Ve skute\u010dnosti to byl pud sebez\u00e1chovy zdej\u0161\u00ed vl\u00e1dy, aby se zem\u011b igelitem neudusila. Binec nen\u00ed jen ve zdej\u0161\u00edch vesni\u010dk\u00e1ch a m\u011bstech, hory odpadk\u016f je propojuj\u00ed. To, co fungovalo s p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edmi materi\u00e1ly, zm\u011bnila doba plast\u016f v utahuj\u00edc\u00ed se opr\u00e1tku. \u010cern\u00e9 igelitov\u00e9 s\u00e1\u010dky, petky, l\u00e1hve, obaly…potk\u00e1te v\u0161ude. Bohu\u017eel i v n\u00e1rodn\u00edch parc\u00edch. Zde je ot\u00e1zkou, nakolik se na tom pod\u00edl\u00ed dovoz, tedy nek\u00e1ze\u0148 turist\u016f. P\u0159esto\u017ee zem\u011b bojuje se suchem, v\u011bt\u0161ina splachovac\u00edch z\u00e1chod\u016f prot\u00e9k\u00e1, voda se m\u00edsto st\u0159e\u0161n\u00edch oh\u0159\u00edva\u010d\u016f h\u0159eje v elektrick\u00fdch bojlerech.
\nPouze hlavn\u00ed silnice jsou asfaltov\u00e9, zbytek jsou pra\u0161n\u00e9 cesty. \u010cerven\u00fd prach \u00farodn\u00e9 africk\u00e9 zem\u011b je v\u0161ude. P\u0159esto m\u00edstn\u00ed vid\u00edte v \u010dist\u00fdch barevn\u00fdch \u0161atech a b\u00edl\u00fdch ko\u0161il\u00edch, oblec\u00edch, lakovan\u00fdch botk\u00e1ch nebo lodi\u010dk\u00e1ch na podpatku. \u010casto m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee jsou l\u00e9pe a vkusn\u011bji oble\u010deni ne\u017e lid\u00e9 u n\u00e1s. A to v\u011bt\u0161ina z nich bydl\u00ed v boud\u00e1ch z prken o p\u016fdorysu n\u011bkolika metr\u016f.
\nCestuje se na motorce, taxi motorky pozn\u00e1te podle reflexn\u00edch vest \u0159idi\u010d\u016f. V\u011bt\u0161ina je nabl\u00fdskanou chloubou majitel\u016f, p\u0159esto se na nich d\u00e1 odv\u00e9zt v\u0161echno. P\u0159\u00edtelkyn\u011b, n\u011bkolik pytl\u016f sena, d\u0159evo, barel s vodou nebo sv\u00e1zan\u00e9 jehn\u011b. Jezd\u00ed tu tak\u00e9 obdoby mar\u0161rutek zvan\u00e9 matatu. Dod\u00e1vky, napln\u011bn\u00e9 a\u017e po st\u0159echu lidmi a jejich v\u011bcmi. Potk\u00e1te i rezav\u00e1 kola, na kter\u00fdch se jede t\u0159eba na pole. Ov\u0161em nejv\u00edc se tu asi chod\u00ed p\u011b\u0161ky. Tady v\u00e1m dojde, pro\u010d Ke\u0148an\u00e9 vyhr\u00e1vaj\u00ed vytrvalostn\u00ed z\u00e1vody a b\u011bh. Je to pro n\u011b p\u0159irozen\u00e9. V\u0161ichni n\u011bkam chod\u00ed. V\u0161ude potk\u00e1te lidi, kte\u0159\u00ed n\u011bkam jdou. Mezi m\u011bsty, v pol\u00edch, v lese. Kdy\u017e jsem v hor\u00e1ch vid\u011bl, co zvl\u00e1dnou s lehkost\u00ed na\u0161i huben\u00ed nosi\u010di, kolik unesou \u017eeny v ko\u0161\u00edch na z\u00e1dech, do\u0161lo mi jak hou\u017eevnat\u00ed tihle lid\u00e9 jsou.
\nKrom\u011b odpadk\u016f lemuj\u00ed cesty podivuhodn\u00e9 boudy z kl\u00e1d, plechu, igelitu a jutov\u00fdch pytl\u016f, kter\u00e9 spole\u010dn\u011b s gar\u00e1\u017eemi a zd\u011bn\u00fdmi boudami, h\u00fd\u0159\u00edc\u00edmi barvami reklamn\u00edch pouta\u010d\u016f, slou\u017e\u00ed jako obchody. Farm\u00e1\u0159i tu prod\u00e1vaj\u00ed sv\u00e9 v\u00fdp\u011bstky, uhl\u00ed\u0159i d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 uhl\u00ed, p\u0159ekupn\u00edci pak cokoli. Stejn\u011b jako v Asii, podobn\u00e9 s podobn\u00fdm. Kde se p\u00e1l\u00ed uhl\u00ed, jedete n\u011bkolik kilometr\u016f mezi uhl\u00ed\u0159i, v hor\u00e1ch pak mezi ananasy, ve vesnic\u00edch t\u0159eba mezi autoopravnami a prodejci olej\u016f a n\u00e1hradn\u00edch d\u00edl\u016f.<\/p>\n

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Ke\u0148a, to je snad kompletn\u00ed proud k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed. Potk\u00e1v\u00e1me katolick\u00e9 kostely, kostely pravoslavn\u00e9 c\u00edrkve, mnoho r\u016fzn\u00fdch letni\u010dn\u00edch sbor\u016f, kter\u00e9 neum\u00edm za\u0159adit, luter\u00e1ny… Na fotografii je n\u00f3bl sbor Arm\u00e1dy sp\u00e1sy. V\u011bt\u0161ina kostel\u016f m\u00e1 podobu plechov\u00e9 boudy. Parafr\u00e1zuji pape\u017ee Franti\u0161ka, k hl\u00e1s\u00e1n\u00ed evangelia nepot\u0159ebujete na\u010dan\u010dan\u00e9 baroko ani vznosnou gotiku. Jinak tu \u017eij\u00ed pochopiteln\u011b i muslimov\u00e9 a me\u0161ity vypadaj\u00ed stejn\u011b, plechov\u00e9 boudy s d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdmi posedy s reproduktory, kter\u00e9 nahrazuj\u00ed vzletn\u00e9 minarety. Nemaj\u00ed probl\u00e9m sousedit s kostely. Kdy\u017e jsem se ve vedlej\u0161\u00ed Tanzanii za\u010detl do tisku, zjistil jsem, \u017ee se m\u011b\u0159\u00ed v\u0161em stejn\u011b. V ozn\u00e1men\u00ed st\u00e1lo, \u017ee v d\u016fsledku budov\u00e1n\u00ed nov\u00e9 silnice kdesi, bude v ochrann\u00e9m p\u00e1smu silnice zbo\u0159eno tolik a tolik kostel\u016f, tolik a tolik me\u0161it a tolik a tolik dom\u016f. V\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00ed pr\u00fd byli vyzv\u00e1ni, aby do r\u00e1na dal\u0161\u00edho dne odnesli z ozna\u010den\u00fdch svatyn\u00ed cenn\u00e9 p\u0159edm\u011bty, proto\u017ee druh\u00fd den se zapo\u010dne s demolic\u00ed. Zkr\u00e1tka stavebn\u00ed p\u0159edpisy tu funguj\u00ed trochu jinak.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Cestou z Mt. Kenya se krajina m\u011bn\u00ed, u Nairobi, „m\u00edsta \u010dist\u00e9 vody“, je ploch\u00e1 s r\u00fd\u017eov\u00fdmi poli, v hor\u00e1ch pak \u017easnete nad oslepuj\u00edc\u00ed zelen\u00ed \u010dajov\u00fdch plant\u00e1\u017e\u00ed, kterou st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 na\u010dervenal\u00e1 barva plant\u00e1\u017e\u00ed ananas\u016f nebo zele\u0148 blahovi\u010dn\u00edkov\u00fdch les\u016f \u010di k\u00e1vov\u00fdch plant\u00e1\u017e\u00ed.\"\"<\/p>\n

Na n\u011bkolika m\u00edstech je je\u0161t\u011b p\u016fvodn\u00ed les, kter\u00fd musel ustoupit zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed. Ten \u00fastup vid\u00edte v p\u0159\u00edm\u00e9m p\u0159enosu. Vyk\u00e1cen\u00fd les se m\u011bn\u00ed v d\u0159evo, na zbytc\u00edch lesa pab\u011brkuj\u00ed uhl\u00ed\u0159i a pak u\u017e je \u010das vys\u00e1zet plant\u00e1\u017e. Odvr\u00e1cen\u00e1 strana t\u00e9hle \u010dajov\u00e9 kr\u00e1sy je ohromn\u00e1 eroze na strm\u00fdch svaz\u00edch. P\u0159ivr\u00e1cen\u00e1 strana je pak ob\u017eiva, jakkoli b\u00eddn\u00e1, dobr\u00fd \u010daj, pen\u00edze z exportu. Kdos bez viny, ho\u010f kamenem.
\nMy u\u017e ale sj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme z hor k jezer\u016fm Velk\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edkopov\u00e9 propadliny. \u010cek\u00e1 n\u00e1s „m\u00edsto m\u011bn\u00edc\u00ed se vody“, jezero Naivasha. Hro\u0161i, \u017eirafy, pelik\u00e1ni a na dal\u0161\u00edm jeze\u0159e snad i n\u011bjak\u00fd ten plame\u0148\u00e1k.<\/p>\n

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Sladkovodn\u00ed jezero Naivasha.\u00a0 „Jezero bou\u0159liv\u00e9 vody“, kv\u016fli n\u00e1hl\u00fdm bou\u0159\u00edm, kter\u00e9 se tu mohou strhnout. Je pravda, \u017ee jeden slejv\u00e1k jsme tu chytli. Mrtv\u00e9 stromy dokumentuj\u00ed jin\u00fd bou\u0159liv\u00fd \u017eivot jezera, a sice kol\u00eds\u00e1n\u00ed jeho hladiny. V posledn\u00edm stolet\u00ed byly stavy, kdy jezero t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 vyschlo, st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1ny obdob\u00edmi, kdy hloubka vody dosahovala pr\u016fm\u011brn\u011b 6 m. Jezero je zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 hlavn\u011b pt\u00e1ky. Ochran\u00e1\u0159sky pat\u0159\u00ed mezi cenn\u00e9 mok\u0159adn\u00ed lokality. I kdy\u017e p\u0159iznejme si, maj\u00ed tu spousty vodn\u00edho hyacintu a trochu bojuj\u00ed s t\u00edm, \u017ee v okol\u00ed se p\u011bstuj\u00ed r\u016f\u017ee, kter\u00e9 kupujete v supermarketech, a z\u00e1vlaha n\u011bco stoj\u00ed. Taky tu maj\u00ed geoterm\u00e1ln\u00ed elektr\u00e1rnu. Na birdwatching, kter\u00fd spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 hlavn\u011b v pelik\u00e1nech, kormor\u00e1nech a show orla jasnohlas\u00e9ho (african fish eagle) se jezd\u00ed na lodi\u010dk\u00e1ch. Je ov\u0161em t\u0159eba d\u00e1vat pozor na hrochy a ne\u010dum\u011bt jen po orlovi, proto\u017ee sr\u00e1\u017eka s hro\u0161\u00edm st\u00e1de\u010dkem nen\u00ed \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 sranda.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mrtv\u00e9 stromy jsou skv\u011bl\u00fdm odpo\u010d\u00edvadlem pro kormor\u00e1ny.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Po de\u0161ti.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Na b\u0159ehu jezera je soukrom\u00e1 game reserve. Kdy\u017e nechce platit pom\u011brn\u011b vysok\u00e9 vstupn\u00e9, zaplat\u00edte si lodi\u010dku a \u0161m\u00edrujete zv\u011b\u0159 z vodn\u00ed hladiny.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mt. Kenya je pln\u00e1 extr\u00e9m\u016f. Vysok\u00e9 teploty padaj\u00ed v noci pod bod mrazu, rozp\u00e1len\u00e9 sk\u00e1ly st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed zele\u0148 lobeli\u00ed a star\u010dek\u016f. Stejn\u011b tak je to, zd\u00e1 se, s celou Ke\u0148ou. Kdy\u017e p\u0159ed \u010dasem Ke\u0148a \u00fapln\u011b zak\u00e1zala igelitov\u00e9 s\u00e1\u010dky a ta\u0161ky, mohlo se zd\u00e1t, \u017ee je to pokrokov\u00e1 „zelen\u00e1“ zem\u011b. Ve skute\u010dnosti to byl pud sebez\u00e1chovy … <\/p>\n

Pokra\u010dovat ve \u010dten\u00ed „List druh\u00fd: Ke\u0148a“<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[11,12,9,10],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/101"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=101"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/101\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":514,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/101\/revisions\/514"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=101"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=101"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=101"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}