{"id":1020,"date":"2018-03-26T15:02:22","date_gmt":"2018-03-26T14:02:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=1020"},"modified":"2018-04-04T12:51:35","modified_gmt":"2018-04-04T11:51:35","slug":"bonaire","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/03\/26\/bonaire\/","title":{"rendered":"Bonaire"},"content":{"rendered":"

Na chv\u00edli jsme zm\u011bnili lokalitu.<\/p>\n

Bonaire.<\/p>\n

Dal\u0161\u00ed z ostrov\u016f Nizozemsk\u00fdch Antil. Mal\u00fd, placat\u00fd. Ostrov soli, kaktusov\u00e9ho \u0161napsu a plame\u0148\u00e1k\u016f.<\/p>\n

Budova leti\u0161t\u011b je r\u016f\u017eov\u00e1, ale zdaleka to nen\u00ed ta n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 syt\u00e1 r\u016f\u017eov\u00e1 zdej\u0161\u00edch plame\u0148\u00e1k\u016f. Vody jsou tu velmi bohat\u00e9 na hav\u011b\u0165 plnou astaxantinu, co\u017e je antioxidant a super barvivo. Ten pochopiteln\u011b z hav\u011bti p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed do pe\u0159\u00ed nebo t\u0159eba taky do masa losos\u016f. Ti tu ale nejsou, proto se soust\u0159ed\u00edme\u00a0 na ptactvo. Plame\u0148\u00e1k karibsk\u00fd (Phoenicopterus ruber)\u00a0<\/em>pat\u0159\u00ed k nejsyt\u011bji zabarven\u00fdm druh\u016fm.<\/p>\n

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Hejno plame\u0148\u00e1k\u016f v soln\u00e9 lagun\u011b Pekelmeer.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u017dije na r\u016fzn\u00fdch m\u00edstech ostrova. Asi nejprofl\u00e1knut\u011bj\u0161\u00ed jsou dv\u011b lokality. Hned u leti\u0161t\u011b je Pekelmeer. Oblast, kter\u00e1 tvo\u0159\u00ed asi desetinu rozlohy ostrova a vypad\u00e1 jako z jin\u00e9 planety. Krajina je o p\u00e1r metr\u016f v\u00fd\u0161e ne\u017e okoln\u00ed mo\u0159e. Je roz\u010dlen\u011bna na velk\u00e9 plochy, kter\u00e9 slou\u017e\u00ed k z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed soli odpa\u0159ov\u00e1n\u00edm mo\u0159sk\u00e9 vody, kterou sem rozv\u00e1d\u00ed syst\u00e9m kan\u00e1l\u016f. Zase tak trochu Nizozem\u00ed. V\u010detn\u011b v\u011btrn\u00fdch ml\u00fdn\u016f k \u010derp\u00e1n\u00ed vody. Ty jsou ov\u0161em jednoduch\u00e9 kovov\u00e9, \u010dist\u011b industri\u00e1ln\u00ed. Voda ve zdej\u0161\u00edch soln\u00fdch lagun\u00e1ch m\u00e1 typickou barvu ostrova Bonaire. Je r\u016f\u017eov\u00e1. A mezi lagunami? Tam je cel\u00fd \u017eejdl\u00edk soli, co \u017eejdl\u00edk, v\u011brtel…hory soli. Na \u00fazk\u00e9m p\u00e1su zem\u011b mezi r\u016f\u017eovou vodou solisek a modrou vodou mo\u0159e, kter\u00e9 divoce bije o b\u00edl\u00fd kor\u00e1lov\u00fd b\u0159eh, stoj\u00ed obelisky a domky otrok\u016f. P\u0159ipom\u00ednka \u010das\u016f, kdy s\u016fl dob\u00fdvali otroci. Domky maj\u00ed velikost kurn\u00edku. Vzduch je prosycen sol\u00ed. B\u00edl\u00e9 \u00falomky kor\u00e1l\u016f zvon\u00ed. Pr\u00fd je to hra dobr\u00e9 mo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00edly, kter\u00e1 varuje lodi. Absence maj\u00e1k\u016f a n\u00edzk\u00fd b\u0159eh m\u011bly v minulosti na sv\u011bdom\u00ed mnoh\u00e1 ztroskot\u00e1n\u00ed. Jen zvuk cinkaj\u00edc\u00edch kor\u00e1l\u016f byl pr\u00fd varov\u00e1n\u00edm, \u017ee zr\u00e1dn\u00e9 pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je bl\u00edzko. Mo\u017en\u00e1 je to i z\u00e1du\u0161n\u00ed m\u0161e za mrtv\u00e9 otroky a n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00edky. Mo\u017en\u00e1 je to p\u0159ipom\u00ednka zlomen\u00fdch okov\u016f.<\/p>\n

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Pekelmeer. Soln\u00e9 laguny. Ano, voda je skute\u010dn\u011b r\u016f\u017eov\u00e1. M\u016f\u017eou za to mikroorganismy bohat\u00e9 na r\u016f\u017eov\u00e9 barvivo astaxanthin. D\u00edky potrav\u011b bohat\u00e9 na tohle barvivo maj\u00ed zdej\u0161\u00ed plame\u0148\u00e1ci kr\u00e1snou barvu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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P\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed laguny v oblasti Pekelmeer. Op\u011bt slan\u00e1 voda. Ov\u0161em m\u00e9n\u011b zakoncentrovan\u00e1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Kor\u00e1lov\u00e9 pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00e9 valouny, pouze v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed i men\u0161\u00ed \u00falomky kor\u00e1l\u016f omlet\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edbojem. Kdy\u017e o sebe nar\u00e1\u017eej\u00ed, zn\u00ed to jako zvonkohra v dr\u00e1\u017e\u010fansk\u00e9m Zwingeru. Hotov\u00fd porcel\u00e1n.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Domky otrok\u016f. Na fotografii mohou p\u016fsobit jako rozko\u0161n\u00e9 chati\u010dky na b\u0159ehu mo\u0159e, ale zd\u00e1n\u00ed klame. Jsou to sp\u00ed\u0161e ps\u00ed boudy s mal\u00fdm vstupn\u00edm otvorem a ok\u00e9nkem o velikosti n\u011bkolika centimetr\u016f. Boudy byly z\u00e1zem\u00edm pro otroky pracuj\u00edc\u00ed v soln\u00fdch lagun\u00e1ch. Na jeden „domek“ p\u0159ipadalo a\u017e \u0161est otrok\u016f. P\u016fvodn\u00ed st\u0159echy byly do\u0161kov\u00e9, z r\u00e1kosu a palmov\u00e9ho list\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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„Domky“ jsou rozd\u011bleny podle barev. B\u00edl\u00e1, modr\u00e1, \u010derven\u00e1 a oran\u017eov\u00e1. Barvy byly vybr\u00e1ny podle nizozemsk\u00e9 vlajky a barvy oran\u017esk\u00e9 kr\u00e1lovsk\u00e9 dynastie. Pro obchodn\u00ed lod\u011b byly orienta\u010dn\u00edm znamen\u00edm. Barva zna\u010dila p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161nou jakost soli. Z mo\u0159e tak bylo jasn\u00e9, kde m\u00e1 lo\u010f zakotvit a jakou sortu soli zde m\u016f\u017ee nalo\u017eit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Ka\u017ed\u00e9 kotvi\u0161t\u011b bylo je\u0161t\u011b ozna\u010deno obeliskem (pyramidou) v p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00e9 barv\u011b.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

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Rozd\u00edl mezi pevninou a mo\u0159em (vlevo) se st\u00edr\u00e1. Pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je skute\u010dn\u011b zr\u00e1dn\u011b n\u00edzk\u00e9. P\u0159i pr\u016fjezdu krajinou jsem m\u011bl podobn\u00e9 pocity jako p\u0159i j\u00edzd\u011b po ji\u017en\u00edm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Islandu. Zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed, jakoby bez\u010das\u00e1, nekone\u010dn\u00e1 rovina. Ob\u010das b\u00edl\u00fd chochol vln z mo\u0159e nar\u00e1\u017eej\u00edc\u00edho na zvoniv\u00fd kor\u00e1lov\u00fd b\u0159eh.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Nizozem\u00ed jak vy\u0161it\u00e9.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Road goes ever on and on. Mostky na okru\u017en\u00ed silnici vedou p\u0159es kan\u00e1ly, kter\u00e9 z\u00e1sobuj\u00ed slan\u00e9 laguny ve vnitrozem\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Pevnina p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed v mo\u0159e…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je \u010derven\u00e9. Tentokr\u00e1t za to mohou rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9 porosty tlustob\u00fdlu (Sesuvium portulacastrum), kter\u00e9mu se holandsky \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 rifbananen. Tlustob\u00fdl skute\u010dn\u011b p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 mal\u00e9 ban\u00e1nky.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A v t\u00e9hle podivn\u00e9 siln\u00e9 scen\u00e9rii jsou m\u00edsta porostl\u00e1 mangrovy, mal\u00e9 z\u00e1livy ob\u00fdvan\u00e9 plame\u0148\u00e1ky.<\/p>\n

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A tady jsou…Hejno plame\u0148\u00e1k\u016f v letu. Na pozad\u00ed slan\u00e9 hory. \u017de v\u00e1m chyb\u00ed detail? Zkr\u00e1tka nem\u00e1m takov\u00fd cajk jako p\u00e1n na dal\u0161\u00edm sn\u00edmku.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Kdy\u017e jedete fotit plame\u0148\u00e1ky na Pekelmeer.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
V dal\u0161\u00edm z\u00e1livu pak svi\u0161t\u00ed windsurfe\u0159i. Des\u00edtky nad\u0161enc\u016f r\u016fzn\u00e9ho v\u011bku k\u0159i\u017euj\u00ed modrou hladinu m\u011blk\u00e9ho kor\u00e1lov\u00e9ho mo\u0159e. Vstup zak\u00e1z\u00e1n. I zhruba \u0161edes\u00e1tilet\u00e1 bab\u010da se navl\u00e9kla do neopr\u00e9nu a vyb\u00edr\u00e1 spr\u00e1vn\u00e9 prkno. My si d\u00e1me kafe a sledujeme prkenn\u00fd ruch.<\/div>\n
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Prkenn\u00fd ruch. Modr\u00e9 vody m\u011blk\u00e9 laguny l\u00e1kaj\u00ed, vstup pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed je ov\u0161em zapov\u011bzen. Prkna svi\u0161t\u00ed rychle a vyh\u00fdbat se chodc\u016fm a plavc\u016fm je obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e9.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Kaktus Stenocereus griseus zvan\u00fd zde Yatu je ide\u00e1ln\u00ed pro \u017eiv\u00e9 ploty. Nasekan\u00e9 stonky snadno ko\u0159en\u00ed a p\u0159es takov\u00fdhle plot se dost\u00e1v\u00e1 opravdu t\u011b\u017eko.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Kolem origin\u00e1ln\u00edch kaktusov\u00fdch \u017eiv\u00fdch plot\u016f p\u0159ejedeme p\u0159es hlavn\u00ed, pon\u011bkud roztahan\u00e9 a nep\u0159\u00edli\u0161 vzhledn\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto ostrova Kralendijk na druhou polovinu ostrova. Ehm…psal jsem placat\u00e9ho, \u017ee? Tak opravuji, placat\u00e1 je soln\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st. \u010c\u00e1st nad Kralendijkem je zvln\u011bn\u00e1 a po vzoru sousedn\u00edho Cura\u00e7aa se zved\u00e1 do kopc\u016f. V\u00fd\u0161ka kolem 200 m nad mo\u0159em. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00fd z\u00e1zrak velehor, ale sta\u010d\u00ed. Op\u011bt n\u00e1dhern\u00fd suchop\u00e1r, jak \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 s oblibou Ka\u010dena. Kaktusy a ak\u00e1cie. Cesta se vine po pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed na \u00fatesech. Ob\u010das pr\u016fsek v trnit\u00e9 vegetaci sestupuj\u00edc\u00ed k mo\u0159i tam, kde je m\u00edsto pro pot\u00e1p\u011b\u010de nebo \u0161norchla\u0159e. Ta n\u00e1s zaj\u00edmaj\u00ed.<\/p>\n

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Jsou tu pl\u00e1\u017ee, kter\u00e9 m\u016f\u017eete m\u00edt jen pro sebe. Obt\u00ed\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edstup do vody je vykoupen bohatstv\u00edm podvodn\u00edho \u017eivota.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
Kousek za Kralendijkem byl n\u00e1dhern\u00fd streetart. „Ti, kte\u0159\u00ed se vyd\u00e1vaj\u00ed na lod\u00edch na mo\u0159e, kdo konaj\u00ed d\u00edlo na nesm\u00edrn\u00fdch vod\u00e1ch, spat\u0159ili Hospodinovy skutky, jeho divy na hlubin\u011b.“ Citace ze \u017dalmu 107:23-24.<\/div>\n
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„You can’t say no, when Jesus say yes…“ dun\u00ed v obchod\u011b se suven\u00fdry. Text jsem si uv\u011bdomil a\u017e po chv\u00edli podup\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed. No a pak p\u0159ed jednou pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed, kde \u010dekaly kor\u00e1lov\u00e9 lesy a nakonec i \u017eelva… Ti, kte\u0159\u00ed se vyd\u00e1vaj\u00ed na lod\u00edch na mo\u0159e, kdo konaj\u00ed d\u00edlo na nesm\u00edrn\u00fdch vod\u00e1ch, spat\u0159ili Hospodinovy skutky, jeho divy na hlubin\u011b.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
Ano, o mo\u0159i to plat\u00ed. A to i kdy\u017e jen s obli\u010dejem pod hladinou nahl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme do tohoto podmo\u0159sk\u00e9ho sv\u011bta div\u016f na hlubin\u011b. Krom\u011b pestr\u00e9 palety ryb jsou tu k vid\u011bn\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 porosty kor\u00e1l\u016f. Ob\u0159\u00ed los\u00ed parohy (v\u011btevn\u00edk dlanit\u00fd – Acropora palmata<\/em>), mozky (\u00fatesovn\u00edk – Diploria strigosa<\/em>, anglicky skute\u010dn\u011b brain coral), p\u0161tros\u00ed pe\u0159\u00ed (rohovitky – Pseudopterogorgia<\/em> spp.), v\u011bj\u00ed\u0159e (rohovitka venu\u0161ina – Gorgonia flabellum<\/em>), lesy v\u011btv\u00ed (v\u011btevn\u00edk paro\u017enat\u00fd –\u00a0Acropora cervicornis<\/em>) a barevn\u00e9 trubky mo\u0159sk\u00fdch hub. A ejhle taky \u017eelvy – karety. Na bl\u00edzk\u00fdch pl\u00e1\u017e\u00edch se l\u00edhnou.<\/div>\n
Bizarn\u00ed je, \u017ee hned u p\u0159\u00edsn\u011b st\u0159e\u017een\u00e9ho prostoru hn\u00edzdn\u00ed pl\u00e1\u017ee je nem\u00e9n\u011b st\u0159e\u017een\u00fd prostor sklad\u016f ropn\u00fdch produkt\u016f. Mezi chr\u00e1n\u011bn\u00fdmi pl\u00e1\u017eemi, n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parkem a ramsarskou konvenc\u00ed chr\u00e1n\u011bnou lokalitou Gotomeere je v n\u00e1dr\u017e\u00edch \u010dern\u00e9 zlato. Kontrasty Karibiku. Gotomeere je, podobn\u011b jako ji\u017e zm\u00edn\u011bn\u00fd Pekelmeer, domovem plame\u0148\u00e1k\u016f. Ov\u0161em krajina je to \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00e1. Mezi nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edmi kopci ostrova je rajsk\u00e1 z\u00e1toka. Vid\u00edte tu plame\u0148\u00e1ky roztrou\u0161en\u00e9 u b\u0159ehu i plovouc\u00ed na hladin\u011b. Sem tam se skupinka rozb\u011bhne po hladin\u011b a za hlasit\u00e9ho kejh\u00e1n\u00ed se vznese, aby p\u0159es\u00eddlila d\u00e1l od ru\u0161\u00edc\u00edch vet\u0159elc\u016f.<\/div>\n
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Kouzeln\u00e1 krajina kolem z\u00e1livu Gotomeere.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Gotomeere je jin\u00fd sv\u011bt.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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P\u0159ed chv\u00edl\u00ed tu na b\u0159ehu bylo hejno plame\u0148\u00e1k\u016f. Ruch motoru je ale vypla\u0161il a p\u0159esunuli se. I tak je z\u00e1liv v podve\u010dern\u00edm slunci n\u00e1dhern\u00fd.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Jakoby nebyl dost barevn\u00fd, je\u0161t\u011b se vystavuje ve ve\u010dern\u00edm slunci.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
P\u0159esouv\u00e1me se mezi kaktusy porostl\u00fdmi bizarn\u00edmi skalami d\u00e1l. N\u00e1\u0161 v\u00fdlet na Bonaire se ch\u00fdl\u00ed ke konci, i kdy\u017e ostrov by si zaslou\u017eil minim\u00e1ln\u011b je\u0161t\u011b dva dny.\u00a0Ve\u010de\u0159e v Kralendijku odhal\u00ed p\u0159ednost m\u011bsta. Na rozd\u00edl od Willemstadu na ostrov\u011b Cura\u00e7ao je tohle m\u011bste\u010dko pln\u00e9 hosp\u016fdek a restaurac\u00ed. Mal\u00fd rodinn\u00fd podnik. Op\u011bt vynikne srovn\u00e1n\u00ed s \u010desk\u00fdm gastronomick\u00fdm peklem.<\/div>\n
„M\u00e1te na t\u011bstoviny n\u011bco krom toho ku\u0159ec\u00edho?“<\/div>\n
„Chvili\u010dku ..“<\/div>\n
Objev\u00ed se\u00a0kucha\u0159. „M\u016f\u017eu v\u00e1m ud\u011blat mo\u0159sk\u00e9 plody, je to ok?“<\/div>\n
Mezi t\u00edm \u0161\u00e9f roztahuje venku slune\u010dn\u00edk a kdy\u017e si v\u0161imne, \u017ee se o\u017eeneme po kom\u00e1rovi, hned p\u0159isp\u011bch\u00e1 s repelentem.<\/div>\n
J\u00eddlo je chutn\u00e9. Kucha\u0159 se p\u0159ijde zeptat, jestli bylo v\u0161e v po\u0159\u00e1dku a jestli takhle upraven\u00e9 t\u011bstoviny byly ok.<\/div>\n
Byly v\u00fdborn\u00e9, \u010derstv\u00e9 a ne\u0161izen\u00e9.<\/div>\n
„D\u011bkujeme, p\u0159ij\u010fte zase. Hezk\u00fd pobyt na ostrov\u011b!“<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Na chv\u00edli jsme zm\u011bnili lokalitu. Bonaire. Dal\u0161\u00ed z ostrov\u016f Nizozemsk\u00fdch Antil. Mal\u00fd, placat\u00fd. Ostrov soli, kaktusov\u00e9ho \u0161napsu a plame\u0148\u00e1k\u016f.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[77],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1020"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1020"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1020\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1063,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1020\/revisions\/1063"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1020"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1020"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1020"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}