{"id":1415,"date":"2018-07-10T09:29:12","date_gmt":"2018-07-10T08:29:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=1415"},"modified":"2018-07-10T09:31:29","modified_gmt":"2018-07-10T08:31:29","slug":"nedele-loferer-steinberge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/07\/10\/nedele-loferer-steinberge\/","title":{"rendered":"Ned\u011ble | Loferer Steinberge"},"content":{"rendered":"

A je tu r\u00e1no. Hladina v \u0159ece kles\u00e1. I Elrond u\u017e dostal rozum a zav\u0159el hn\u011bd\u00e1ky do st\u00e1je.\u00a0 Saalach m\u00e1 kone\u010dn\u011b zase barvu ledovcov\u00e9 horsk\u00e9 \u0159eky, modrosivou. Jen naplaven\u00e9 kl\u00e1dy chycen\u00e9 mezi balvany u b\u0159ehu asi dva metry nad st\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed hladinou d\u00e1vaj\u00ed tu\u0161it, \u017ee je\u0161t\u011b ned\u00e1vno se tu hnalo divok\u00e9 bou\u0159\u00edc\u00ed st\u00e1do.<\/p>\n

Dnes z\u016fstaneme v Loferu.<\/div>\n
Loferer Steinberge.<\/div>\n
Zdola vypadaj\u00ed pom\u011brn\u011b nevinn\u011b. Naho\u0159e je to ale sam\u00e1 ferrata. Jedna z nejpopul\u00e1rn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch lezeck\u00fdch oblast\u00ed regionu. My se ale takov\u00fdch v\u011bci dopou\u0161t\u011bt nebudeme. V pl\u00e1nu je okruh p\u0159es kamenn\u00e9 mo\u0159e kolem horsk\u00e9 chaty, kter\u00e1 mate sv\u00fdm n\u00e1zvem. Pro\u010d? Inu je pojmenov\u00e1na po n\u011bmeck\u00e9m dr\u00e1\u017en\u00edm \u00fa\u0159edn\u00edkovi, p\u0159edsedovi zdej\u0161\u00ed sekce Alpenvereinu Josefu Schmidtovi \u0161lechtici ze Zabierowa, tedy po n\u011bmecku „von Schmidt-Zabierow“. Kdy\u017e lezete na chatu a na \u0161ipk\u00e1ch je po\u0159\u00e1d „von“ m\u00edsto „zu“ nebo „nach“ , je to trochu zmate\u010dn\u00e9. Tyhle slovn\u00ed hr\u00e1tky za\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edk\u016f v jazyce.<\/div>\n
Chatu postavili koncem 19. stolet\u00ed. V\u00edte, na chozen\u00ed po hor\u00e1ch mne v\u017edycky fascinuje ta v\u011bc s upraven\u00fdmi cestami a zna\u010den\u00edm. My fun\u00edme a hek\u00e1me, pot\u00edme se, ale co ti, kte\u0159\u00ed tu cestu pro\u0161lap\u00e1vali, hledali, zna\u010dili, budovali chaty, vrtali skoby, p\u0159ipev\u0148ovali \u017eeb\u0159\u00edky a lana kdesi naho\u0159e ve 2000 metrech. To jsou prav\u00ed hrdinov\u00e9!<\/div>\n
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Stoup\u00e1me dusn\u00fdm, vlhk\u00fdm a lepiv\u00fdm lesem, kter\u00fd je ov\u0161em kr\u00e1sn\u00fd!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Ob\u010das se otev\u0159ou mezi stromy v\u00fdhledy dol\u016f do \u00fadol\u00ed sm\u011brem k Loferu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Cesta na chatu p\u00e1n\u011b von Schmidt-Zabierow ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 1966 je pom\u011brn\u011b komfortn\u00ed. Vyfun\u011bli jsme to za n\u011bjak\u00e9 dv\u011b a p\u016fl hodiny, jestli se nepletu. Dole se jde lesem, kter\u00fd d\u00edky t\u011bm de\u0161\u0165\u016fm a\u00a0 teplot\u00e1m posledn\u00edch dn\u00ed p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 sp\u00ed\u0161 tropick\u00fd prales. Je upocen\u00fd, vlhk\u00fd, doslova se na v\u00e1s lep\u00ed. Nad hranic\u00ed lesa v p\u00e1smu horsk\u00fdch luk u\u017e pofukuje. \u0160\u0165avnat\u00fd zelen\u00fd koberec trav a ost\u0159ic je bohat\u011b vy\u0161\u00edvan\u00fd r\u016f\u017eovou rododendron\u016f, \u017elutou \u00faro\u010dn\u00edk\u016f, jest\u0159\u00e1bn\u00edk\u016f a v\u0161elik\u00fdch roz\u00e1cek, modrou ho\u0159c\u016f, lilie, k\u00fdchavice, upol\u00edny, ho\u0159e\u010dky, mal\u00e9 silenky… do toho v\u00fdhledy do \u00fadol\u00ed a hlava se to\u010d\u00ed. I v b\u00edl\u00e9m skaln\u00edm v\u00e1pencov\u00e9m masivu je spousta kv\u011bt\u016f. V z\u00e1vrtech a r\u00fdh\u00e1ch jsou drobn\u00e9 u v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed zahr\u00e1dky. Do toho na chr\u00e1n\u011bn\u00fdch m\u00edstech sn\u011bhov\u00e1 pole a hlubok\u00e9 j\u00e1my vypln\u011bn\u00e9 sn\u011bhem jako pivovarsk\u00e9 led\u00e1rny. Kdepak je ta chata, jist\u011b za t\u00e1mhle tou hranou… obvykl\u00e1 horsk\u00e1 hra. Za sk\u00e1lou je dal\u0161\u00ed sk\u00e1la, za mor\u00e9nou mor\u00e9na, za balvani\u0161t\u011bm dal\u0161\u00ed balvany… a a\u017e tam, tam naho\u0159e za sn\u011bhov\u00fdm polem a skalkou plnou modr\u00fdch ho\u0159c\u016f je chata.<\/div>\n
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Prameni\u0161t\u011b jsou porostl\u00e1 havez\u00ed, prysky\u0159n\u00edky a upol\u00edny.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Kukl\u00edk poto\u010dn\u00ed (Geum rivale)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Zahr\u00e1dky k\u00fdchavice, kakost\u016f a pomn\u011bnek.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Jeden ze symbol\u016f Alp, ho\u0159ec Clusi\u016fv (Gentiana clusii).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
Kdy\u017e \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m, \u017ee jsme to lezli p\u0159es dv\u011b ho\u010fky, tak tahle cesta se i b\u011bh\u00e1. Ti nejlep\u0161\u00ed mu\u017ei to daj\u00ed za 40 minut, \u017eeny pak za 50 minut.<\/div>\n
Chata von Schmidt-Zabierow pat\u0159\u00ed Alpenvereinu. Skv\u011ble, jak jinak, tu va\u0159\u00ed. T\u011bstoviny s h\u0159\u00edbkovou om\u00e1\u010dkou zdoben\u00e9 parmaz\u00e1nem s \u010derstv\u00fdm sal\u00e1tkem z n\u011bkolika druh\u016f listov\u00e9ho sal\u00e1tu (\u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 zel\u00ed\u010dko a raj\u010de), brambory sypan\u00e9 petr\u017eelkou…Obsluha je, jak jinak, mil\u00e1 a p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1. Jede se na sol\u00e1rn\u00ed energii a odpadky se nos\u00ed dol\u016f! Kdy\u017e jste si j\u00eddlo vynesli nahoru, jist\u011b zvl\u00e1dnete zbytky odn\u00e9st dol\u016f. \u017de to nechcete matlat v batohu? \u0158ekn\u011bte si o pytl\u00edk! Alpenverein mysl\u00ed i na tyto typy v\u00fdmluv. Chr\u00e1n\u00edme v\u00e1\u0161 batoh i citlivou horskou p\u0159\u00edrodu.<\/div>\n
Chata je z\u00e1kladnou lezc\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed vyr\u00e1\u017eej\u00ed na okoln\u00ed bizarn\u00ed sk\u00e1ly. Mn\u011b to sta\u010d\u00ed vid\u011bt na obr\u00e1zku. P\u016fjdeme p\u0159es obrovsk\u00e9 \u0161krapov\u00e9 pole, p\u0159elezeme h\u0159eb\u00ednek a vedlej\u0161\u00edm \u00fadol\u00edm slezeme dol\u016f do Maria Kirchental a pak p\u0159es kope\u010dek k autu. Takov\u00fd je pl\u00e1n.<\/div>\n
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V\u00fdhled z von Schmidt-Zabierow H\u00fctte do \u00fadol\u00ed k Loferu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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a tohle jsou ferratov\u00e9 ter\u00e9ny nad chatou.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Opou\u0161t\u00edme chatu a jdeme vst\u0159\u00edc v\u00e1pencov\u00e9mu ter\u00e9nu pln\u00e9mu z\u00e1\u0159ez\u016f, jam a sn\u011bhov\u00fdch pol\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
P\u0159es b\u00edl\u00fd v\u00e1penec se leze dob\u0159e, navzdory tomu, \u017ee se zat\u00e1hlo. Mrak se zachytil na Mitterhornu (2506 m n. m.) a natrhl se. Pr\u0161\u00ed. Vyt\u00e1hnu pl\u00e1\u0161t\u011bnku. Ov\u0161em lezte nahoru a dol\u016f po t\u011bch ostr\u00fdch hran\u00e1ch. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 ustal, v pl\u00e1\u0161t\u011bnce bych daleko nedolezl. Ob\u010das se je\u0161t\u011b vr\u00e1t\u00ed kr\u00e1tk\u00e1 p\u0159eh\u00e1\u0148ka, ale to u\u017e je jen na bundu a futr\u00e1l na batoh. P\u0159ejdeme velk\u00e9 sn\u011bhov\u00e9 pole, kter\u00e9 te\u010de dol\u016f po suti a u\u017e se leze nahoru do sedla. Dojdeme jednu rodinku. \u010ce\u0161i. M\u00e1ma, t\u00e1ta a t\u0159i dcery ve v\u011bku \u0159ekn\u011bme od 7 do 15 let. Viky, t\u00e9 nejmlad\u0161\u00ed to zase tak nejde. Holt m\u00e1 kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 nohy, tak\u017ee je to pro ni t\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed. P\u0159esto j\u00ed odvaha nechyb\u00ed. Zato Veronika je jedna z t\u011bch, kter\u00e1 by jist\u011b dala Lofer-von Schmidt-Zabierow H\u00fctte za t\u011bch 50 minut. Ne, dala by to za 30. Zn\u00e1te ty dokumenty BBC o kozoro\u017ec\u00edch? Tak n\u011bjak tak v pohod\u011b jde Veronika. M\u00e1 jednu h\u016flku a hopk\u00e1 si to po kamenech a skal\u00e1ch. V jej\u00edm modror\u016f\u017eov\u00e9m oble\u010den\u00ed ji snadno vid\u00edte, jak v\u00e1m unik\u00e1 a m\u016f\u017eete blednout z\u00e1vist\u00ed, kdy\u017e v\u00e1m zrovna noha uj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed po suti a koleno a kotn\u00edky jako gyroskopy krou\u017e\u00ed do v\u0161emo\u017en\u00fdch stran, zat\u00edmco vy bezradn\u011b m\u00e1v\u00e1te h\u016flkama kolem sebe a sna\u017e\u00edte se zabr\u00e1nit p\u00e1du.<\/div>\n
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Jedno z po\u010detn\u00fdch sn\u011bhov\u00fdch pol\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Krajina vypad\u00e1 dramaticky. Pom\u00e1h\u00e1 tomu i po\u010das\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Kdy\u017e si fotku zv\u011bt\u0161\u00edte, uvid\u00edte, \u017ee sn\u011bhov\u00e9 pole pr\u00e1v\u011b p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed na\u0161e rodinka. Cesta vych\u00e1z\u00ed z prav\u00e9ho doln\u00edho rohu a je snadno sledovateln\u00e1 p\u0159es cel\u00fd sn\u00edmek. Od sn\u011bhov\u00e9ho pole pak pokra\u010duje m\u00edrn\u011b nahoru doleva.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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V sedle je rozcest\u00ed. Fajn\u0161mek\u0159i s lezeckou v\u00fdbavou mohou l\u00e9zt na Ochsenhorn nahoru do mrak\u016f.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Dal\u0161\u00ed sn\u011bhov\u00e9 pole. Veronika navrhovala, \u017ee by se dalo sjet na bobech.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Jen to dole ubrzdit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Krev zem\u011b je na v\u00e1penci \u017elut\u00e1 a fialov\u00e1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Silenkov\u00e9 truhl\u00edky (Silene acaulis).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Pohled zp\u00e1tky. P\u0159i\u0161li jsme z toho sedla zhruba uprost\u0159ed. Vlevo v mraku Ochsenhorn (2511 m n.m.) nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed hora skupiny Loferer Steinberge.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dojdeme ji a\u017e u bivaku na rozhran\u00ed su\u0165ov\u00e9ho svahu a horsk\u00fdch luk nad mod\u0159\u00ednov\u00fdm lesem. Bivak je kr\u00e1sn\u011b za\u0159\u00edzen\u00fd. Kam\u00ednka, n\u00e1dob\u00ed, d\u0159evo, l\u00e9karni\u010dka, lana, matrace a sklopn\u00e9 postele. N\u011bco j\u00eddla, l\u00e1hev siln\u00e9ho rumu. Vzpomenu si na tzv. bivaky na \u0160umav\u011b. Spousta cedul\u00ed a pak je tam vyhrazen\u00e9 m\u00edsto na louce – tady m\u016f\u017eete nouzov\u011b… co? um\u0159\u00edt? V bou\u0159ce, v de\u0161ti?<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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V\u00fdhled do Maria Kirchental. Poutn\u00ed kostel je vid\u011bt zhruba uprost\u0159ed v doln\u00ed t\u0159etin\u011b sn\u00edmku. Bohu\u017eel n\u00e1s od n\u011bj d\u011bl\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b n\u011bkolik set v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f a „Ryhopsk\u00fd prales“ na suti.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Jen se paste ove\u010dky, p\u011bkn\u011b zvo\u0148te zvone\u010dky… Netu\u0161\u00edm, jak sem ty ovce dost\u00e1vaj\u00ed. Vrtuln\u00edkem? Vzpom\u00edn\u00e1m si na kapitoly z Thordarsonovy knihy Kameny mluv\u00ed. Islan\u010fan\u00e9 z jeho rodn\u00e9 vsi tam nejprve pozoruj\u00ed a pot\u00e9 zachra\u0148uj\u00ed ovci, kter\u00e1 vylezla na sklan\u00ed \u0159\u00edmsu. Cel\u00e1 operace trv\u00e1 n\u011bkolik dn\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Osv\u011b\u017een\u00ed p\u0159ed vstupem do zelen\u00e9ho \u0161era Ryhopu…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
Od bivaku p\u0159es louku s pasouc\u00edmi se ovcemi. B\u00edlor\u016f\u017eov\u00fd k\u00fd\u010d. U\u017e jen Heidi chyb\u00ed. B\u00edl\u00e1 jeh\u0148\u00e1tka v r\u016f\u017eov\u011b kvetouc\u00edch p\u011bni\u0161n\u00edc\u00edch. Na pozad\u00ed hor. Mod\u0159\u00ednov\u00fd h\u00e1j stalet\u00fdch strom\u016f n\u00e1m zamot\u00e1 hlavu. Je tu tak kr\u00e1sn\u011b, \u017ee si ani nev\u0161imneme, \u017ee u\u017e nejsme v h\u00e1ji, ale v h\u00e1ji. Les zahoustnul, mod\u0159\u00edny nahradily smrky a javory. Vlhk\u00fd su\u0165ov\u00fd les na v\u00e1penci po de\u0161ti. Klou\u017eou ko\u0159eny, klou\u017eou kameny, nohy se bo\u0159\u00ed do vrstvy mokr\u00e9ho list\u00ed a \u010dern\u00e9 hl\u00edny. Kaprad\u00ed maskuje zr\u00e1dn\u00e9 prohlubn\u011b a dal\u0161\u00ed kluzk\u00e9 ko\u0159eny. Jelen\u00ed jazyk tr\u010d\u00edc\u00ed z d\u011br mezi kameny. Les se n\u00e1m sm\u011bje. A cel\u00e9 to divadlo m\u00e1 sklon 90\u00b0. No dob\u0159e, 90\u00b0 ne, to je kolm\u00e9, a kolm\u00e9 to nen\u00ed, tak\u017ee opravuji: m\u00e1 to sklon 85\u00b0. A je to Ryhop. Zn\u00e1te Holdstocka? Takhle n\u011bjak to tam mus\u00ed vypadat. Stezka u\u017e nevypad\u00e1 jako ona Sch\u00e4rdingersteig \u010d\u00edslo 613 zna\u010den\u00e1 \u010dervenob\u00edle. Stezka u\u017e je jen tu\u0161en\u00e1. Zda ji pro\u0161lapali lid\u00e9, zv\u00ed\u0159ata, myt\u00e1ga… kdo v\u00ed. Klikat\u00ed se. Klou\u017ee dol\u016f po ko\u0159enech, uh\u00fdb\u00e1 mezi kaprad\u00ed, podl\u00e9z\u00e1 v\u00fdvraty. Kdy jsme vid\u011bli posledn\u00ed zna\u010dku? Rokle pad\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b strm\u011bji, u\u017e se tudy ned\u00e1 j\u00edt ani klouzat, jen padat. Ulepen\u00ed potem se plaz\u00edme zase nahoru, hledat posledn\u00ed zna\u010dku. N\u011bkde jsme museli \u0161patn\u011b sej\u00edt. Kone\u010dn\u011b. Na mechem obrostl\u00e9m balvanu je sotva znateln\u00e1 \u010derven\u00e1 zna\u010dka. B\u00fdt v opravdov\u00e9m Ryhopu, \u0159ekl bych krev, ale tady na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed v\u00edm, \u017ee je to zna\u010den\u00ed. Nejsp\u00ed\u0161 ho tu d\u011blali je\u0161t\u011b na tom konci 19. stolet\u00ed. Te\u010f u\u017e ho neztrat\u00edme. Navzdory na\u0161emu pl\u00e1nu a p\u0159edstav\u011b mapy cesta vede pon\u011bkud jinak a vyplivne n\u00e1s z lesa n\u011bjak\u00fdch 500 za poutn\u00edm kostelem Maria Kirchental. N\u00e1mi zam\u00fd\u0161len\u00fd p\u0159echod h\u0159eb\u00ednku je tu najednou zna\u010den \u010dern\u011b, s \u010dasov\u00fdm \u00fadajem 2,5 hodiny a pozn\u00e1mkou „pouze pro zdatn\u00e9 a bez z\u00e1vrat\u00ed“.\u00a0 Tak to ani n\u00e1hodou. Po Ryhopu u\u017e moje nohy protestuj\u00ed. Dal\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdstup a sestup \u0161\u00edlen\u00fdm lesem, kde p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi \u0161el naposled Josef\u00a0 von Schmidt-Zabierow, kdy\u017e naho\u0159e roku 1899 stav\u011bl chatu, bych nedal. A v\u016fbec, poj\u010fme do kostela pod\u011bkovat, \u017ee jsme p\u0159e\u017eili.<\/div>\n
V 17. stolet\u00ed tu zbudovali malou lesn\u00ed kapli s obrazem Panny Marie s Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161kem. D\u011b\u0165\u00e1tko m\u00e1 v ruce nikoli jabl\u00ed\u010dko nebo sladkou hru\u0161ti\u010dku, ale stehl\u00edka. To zn\u00e1te t\u0159eba i u n\u00e1s – Panna Maria z Veve\u0159\u00ed. Odkazuje se tu na Luk\u00e1\u0161e 12,24.\u00a0 „O\u010d v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed cenu m\u00e1te vy ne\u017e pt\u00e1ci!“ Stehl\u00edk je symbolem Krista a cel\u00e9ho Stvo\u0159en\u00ed o kter\u00e9 se star\u00e1.<\/div>\n
Kaple postupn\u011b p\u0159erostla ve velk\u00fd kostel, kde se ka\u017edoro\u010dn\u011b konaj\u00ed pout\u011b. Je to jedno z velmi obl\u00edben\u00fdch m\u00edst v Salzbursku, ale i sousedn\u00edm Bavorsku. O vd\u011b\u010dnosti poutn\u00edk\u016f, s\u00edle v\u00edry a modlitby sv\u011bd\u010d\u00ed ohromn\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed votivn\u00edch obraz\u016f a sv\u00edc\u00ed. Obrazy pokr\u00fdvaj\u00ed celou st\u011bnu za hlavn\u00edm olt\u00e1\u0159em, ale i dal\u0161\u00ed st\u011bny kostela.<\/div>\n
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Maria Kirchental – poutn\u00ed kostel v Alp\u00e1ch, p\u0159esn\u011b takhle si to v\u0161ichni p\u0159edstavujeme.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Sb\u00edrky votivn\u00edch obraz\u016f v\u011bnovan\u00fdch poutn\u00edky. S\u00edla v\u00edry a modlitby.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Sb\u00edrka sv\u00edc\u00ed. Jak vidno, poutn\u00edci sem p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00ed i z nedalek\u00e9ho Bavorska.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Obraz\u016f jsou des\u00edtky, mo\u017en\u00e1 stovky. Za 300 let je tohle m\u00edsto pln\u00e9 drobn\u00fdch lidsk\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh\u016f vd\u011b\u010dnosti a proseb. V\u00edra, nad\u011bje a l\u00e1ska.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
Od kostela u\u017e je to po komfortn\u00ed cest\u011b necel\u00e1 hodina a p\u016fl do c\u00edle. V Rakous\u00edch a N\u011bmecku se toti\u017e nemysl\u00ed jen na horaly, ale i na lidi, kte\u0159\u00ed t\u0159eba do hor nevylezou nebo nevyb\u011bhnou a p\u0159esto cht\u011bj\u00ed tr\u00e1vit \u010das v p\u0159\u00edrod\u011b. V okol\u00ed m\u011bste\u010dek jsou tu zpevn\u011bn\u00e9 vych\u00e1zkov\u00e9 chodn\u00edky, zna\u010den\u00e9 okruhy r\u016fzn\u00e9 obt\u00ed\u017enosti dopln\u011bn\u00e9 lavi\u010dkami. U potoka, kde parkujeme je pak ud\u011blan\u00e9 kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 koupadlo s Kneippov\u00fdm chodn\u00edkem. Po dne\u0161n\u00ed t\u00fa\u0159e je to n\u00e1dhera. Nohy se po dvou dnech kone\u010dn\u011b do\u010dkaly zaslou\u017een\u00e9 \u00falevy v chladiv\u00e9 l\u00e1zni.<\/div>\n
Gott sei Dank!<\/div>\n
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\"\"<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A je tu r\u00e1no. Hladina v \u0159ece kles\u00e1. I Elrond u\u017e dostal rozum a zav\u0159el hn\u011bd\u00e1ky do st\u00e1je.\u00a0 Saalach m\u00e1 kone\u010dn\u011b zase barvu ledovcov\u00e9 horsk\u00e9 \u0159eky, modrosivou. Jen naplaven\u00e9 kl\u00e1dy chycen\u00e9 mezi balvany u b\u0159ehu asi dva metry nad st\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed hladinou d\u00e1vaj\u00ed tu\u0161it, \u017ee je\u0161t\u011b ned\u00e1vno se tu hnalo divok\u00e9 bou\u0159\u00edc\u00ed st\u00e1do.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[80,1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1415"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1415"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1415\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1499,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1415\/revisions\/1499"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1415"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1415"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1415"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}