{"id":142,"date":"2017-10-11T21:17:40","date_gmt":"2017-10-11T21:17:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=142"},"modified":"2017-11-13T16:34:42","modified_gmt":"2017-11-13T16:34:42","slug":"list-ctvrty-maasai-mara","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2017\/10\/11\/list-ctvrty-maasai-mara\/","title":{"rendered":"List \u010dtvrt\u00fd: Maasai Mara"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Jejejejedededemememe dododo n\u00e1rrrrrrodn\u00edn\u00edn\u00edhoho parrrrrrkukuku Maasai Mara. Sjeli jsme z hlavn\u00ed silnice a \u010dek\u00e1 n\u00e1s 130 km po pra\u0161n\u00e9 rozbit\u00e9 cest\u011b degradovanou trnitou savanou. Kdykoli p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme nebo jsme p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bni, auto se zahal\u00ed do oblaku hn\u011bd\u00e9ho prachu, kter\u00fd vleze v\u0161ude. \u010cek\u00e1m, kdy se vysypou skla. M\u00edt v batohu smetanu, mohli bychom za chv\u00edli d\u011blat \u0161leha\u010dkov\u00fd dort. Dot\u00e1hli bychom to po t\u011bch t\u0159ech hodin\u00e1ch jist\u011b i na m\u00e1slo. Novou cestu buduj\u00ed, jako v\u011bt\u0161inu staveb v Keni, \u010d\u00edn\u0161t\u00ed soudruzi africk\u00fdm tempem, tedy pole pole &#8211; slowly slowly. Jednou si to tu v\u0161echno koup\u00ed.<!--more--><br \/>\nM\u00edj\u00edme po\u010detn\u00e1 st\u00e1da koz, ovc\u00ed a krav. Pr\u00e1v\u011b intenzivn\u00ed pastva pomohla vytvo\u0159it tuhle krajinu. Chcete &#8211; li jako kytka p\u0159e\u017e\u00edt, mus\u00edte bojovat. Mechanicky, chemicky, nebo kombinac\u00ed. Minim\u00e1ln\u00ed listov\u00e1 plocha, trny a jedy. Ak\u00e1cie stromov\u00e9 i ke\u0159ov\u00e9, ob\u0159\u00ed sv\u00edcnov\u00e9 pry\u0161ce, durmany a sl\u00e9zy.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-415 size-large aligncenter\" src=\"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC03927A-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"350\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC03927A-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC03927A-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC03927A-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" \/>Mezi t\u00edm sem tam tradi\u010dn\u00ed d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 a hlin\u011bn\u00e9 chatr\u010de, \u010dast\u011bji v\u0161ak &#8222;inovovan\u00e9&#8220; plechov\u00e9 boudy pastevc\u016f, dokonce i kostel, jako obvykle v Keni m\u00e1 podobu plechov\u00e9 gar\u00e1\u017ee, a postavy Masaj\u016f.V t\u00e9hle \u0161edozelen\u00e9 pra\u0161n\u00e9 krajin\u011b jejich huben\u00e9 postavy sv\u00edt\u00ed do d\u00e1li d\u00edky tradi\u010dn\u00edmu kusu od\u011bvu\u00a0 zvan\u00e9ho shuka. Je to pl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 o rozm\u011bru cca 2&#215;2 metry nej\u010dast\u011bji \u010derveno\u010dern\u011b kostkovan\u00fd. V m\u00f3d\u011b jsou ale i jin\u00e9 barvy: \u017elut\u00e1, zelen\u00e1, oran\u017eov\u00e1, modr\u00e1, a krom kostky se nos\u00ed i prou\u017eek. V ruce pasteveckou h\u016fl nebo o\u0161t\u011bp, ten nos\u00ed v\u00e1le\u010dn\u00edci, kte\u0159\u00ed pij\u00ed kravsk\u00e9 ml\u00e9ko s krv\u00ed. Pod pl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 si ob\u010das vezmou i bundu nebo kalhoty. P\u0159es den tr\u00e1v\u00ed mu\u017ei \u010das se sv\u00fdmi st\u00e1dy na pastv\u011b v t\u00e9 ostnit\u00e9 d\u017eungli. \u017deny v je\u0161t\u011b barevn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u00faborech tahaj\u00ed objemn\u00e9 barely s vodou z\u00e1v\u011b\u0161en\u00e9 na popruhu kolem \u010dela. V kontrastu s tou barevnou n\u00e1dherou jsou jejich vesnice. Vypadaj\u00ed jako slumy na hor\u00e1ch odpadk\u016f. Dost bez\u00fat\u011b\u0161n\u00fd pohled.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-414 size-large aligncenter\" src=\"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC03800-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"350\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC03800-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC03800-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC03800-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" \/><br \/>\nKe\u0148sk\u00e1 vl\u00e1da \u00fadajn\u011b tla\u010d\u00ed na omezen\u00ed pastvy, ale pro Masaje je to sou\u010d\u00e1st identity. Kdyby Maasai Mara, kam jedeme, nebyla n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parkem, asi by ji potkal osud vypasen\u00e9 krajiny pln\u00e9 prachu a trn\u00ed.<br \/>\nPo t\u0159ech hodin\u00e1ch dosk\u00e1\u010deme k hranic\u00edm n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku.<br \/>\nPrvn\u00ed ve\u010der na safari je trochu zklam\u00e1n\u00edm. Tohle \u017ee je ono. Hon v d\u017e\u00edpu za \u017eirafou nebo lvem? Hmmm&#8230; takov\u00e1 zoo bez n\u00e1pojov\u00fdch automat\u016f. Pravda, krajina je kr\u00e1sn\u00e1, ale stejn\u011b&#8230;<br \/>\nHloup\u011b netu\u0161\u00edm, co n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 druh\u00fd den, kdy v parku str\u00e1v\u00edme osm hodin. Ohromn\u00e1 rozloha zvln\u011bn\u00e9 travnat\u00e9 savany. Sem tam strom, skupinky ke\u0159\u016f, drobn\u00e9 i v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed prohlubn\u011b zalit\u00e9 vodou nebo pln\u00e9 bahna, podivn\u00e9 hmyz\u00ed v\u00fdtvory z hl\u00edny a mezi t\u00edm tis\u00edcihlav\u00e1 st\u00e1da pakon\u00ed, zeber, gazel a antilop. Vzduch studen\u00fd rann\u00edm de\u0161t\u011bm se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 oh\u0159\u00edvat. Neskute\u010dn\u00e1 krajinn\u00e1 scen\u00e9rie pln\u00e1 kopytn\u00edk\u016f. Na obzoru kr\u00e1\u010d\u00ed st\u00e1do slon\u016f, v bahnisku se rochn\u00ed buvoli. \u017dirafy, prasata bradavi\u010dnat\u00e1, skupiny p\u0161tros\u016f. Z k\u0159ovin vyjde lv\u00ed samec a kr\u00e1\u010d\u00ed p\u0159es planinu. D\u017e\u00edp\u016f si ani nev\u0161imne. Ob\u0159\u00ed st\u00e1do pakon\u00ed a zeber se rozd\u011bl\u00ed. Lev kr\u00e1\u010d\u00ed st\u0159edem. Nerv\u00f3zn\u00ed frk\u00e1n\u00ed. Ob\u011b poloviny st\u00e1da m\u011bn\u00ed sm\u011br jako hejna \u0161pa\u010dk\u016f na vinic\u00edch. Za chv\u00edli lev zmiz\u00ed z dohledu. St\u00e1do se uklidn\u00ed.<br \/>\nJak proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme krajinou, doch\u00e1z\u00ed mi, \u017ee Maasai Mara je i ob\u0159\u00edm h\u0159bitovem. V tr\u00e1v\u011b se v\u00e1l\u00ed lebky, kosti, mr\u0161iny. V hork\u00e9m vzduchu krou\u017e\u00ed na obla\u010dn\u00e9m nebi supi.<br \/>\nP\u0159i migraci do sousedn\u00edho parku Serengeti \u010dek\u00e1 na zv\u00ed\u0159ata vodn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edkop tvo\u0159en\u00fd meandruj\u00edc\u00ed \u0159ekou Mara. B\u0159ehy jsou strm\u00e9 a ve vod\u011b \u010dekaj\u00ed krokod\u00fdli. Zb\u011bsil\u00fd b\u011bh tis\u00edcihlav\u00fdch st\u00e1d si pus\u0165te t\u0159eba na BBC nature. Vybavuju si jej, kdy\u017e kouk\u00e1me na kaln\u00fd proud \u0159eky, nah\u0159\u00edvaj\u00edc\u00ed se krokod\u00fdly na b\u0159ehu a l\u00edn\u011b se povaluj\u00edc\u00ed hrochy ve vod\u011b.<br \/>\nP\u0159i n\u00e1vratu na z\u00e1kladnu op\u011bt proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme ob\u0159\u00edmi st\u00e1dy, potk\u00e1v\u00e1me dal\u0161\u00ed slony, lvy, sp\u00edc\u00ed \u017eirafu, kter\u00e1 vypad\u00e1 jako socha a v\u0161echny n\u00e1s dokonale zmate, skupiny buvol\u016f, p\u0159ed autem prchaj\u00ed zmaten\u00e9 perli\u010dky.<br \/>\nDrsn\u00e1 Afrika.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Jejejejedededemememe dododo n\u00e1rrrrrrodn\u00edn\u00edn\u00edhoho parrrrrrkukuku Maasai Mara. Sjeli jsme z hlavn\u00ed silnice a \u010dek\u00e1 n\u00e1s 130 km po pra\u0161n\u00e9 rozbit\u00e9 cest\u011b degradovanou trnitou savanou. Kdykoli p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme nebo jsme p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bni, auto se zahal\u00ed do oblaku hn\u011bd\u00e9ho prachu, kter\u00fd vleze v\u0161ude. \u010cek\u00e1m, kdy se vysypou skla. M\u00edt v batohu smetanu, mohli bychom za chv\u00edli d\u011blat \u0161leha\u010dkov\u00fd dort. Dot\u00e1hli &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2017\/10\/11\/list-ctvrty-maasai-mara\/\" class=\"more-link\">Pokra\u010dovat ve \u010dten\u00ed<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8222;List \u010dtvrt\u00fd: Maasai Mara&#8220;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[11,12,9,23,24],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/142"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=142"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/142\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":496,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/142\/revisions\/496"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=142"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=142"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=142"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}