{"id":1514,"date":"2018-07-18T10:12:41","date_gmt":"2018-07-18T09:12:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=1514"},"modified":"2018-07-18T15:16:44","modified_gmt":"2018-07-18T14:16:44","slug":"pondelni-stripky-z-kyjeva","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/07\/18\/pondelni-stripky-z-kyjeva\/","title":{"rendered":"Pond\u011bln\u00ed st\u0159\u00edpky z Kyjeva"},"content":{"rendered":"

Budu se opakovat, ale posledn\u00ed dny v\u00fdlet\u016f a cest jsou chudinky. Dostane se na n\u011b v\u017edy a\u017e s odstupem. V\u011bt\u0161inou za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed bal\u00edc\u00edm stresem, pak pokra\u010duj\u00ed podivnou nostalgi\u00ed, kdy m\u00e1 \u010dlov\u011bk pocit, \u017ee n\u011bco nesm\u00edrn\u011b z\u00e1sadn\u00edho ztr\u00e1c\u00ed, a kon\u010d\u00ed r\u016fzn\u00fdmi podivn\u00fdmi \u00faprky na leti\u0161t\u011b nebo n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed, to kdy\u017e se zjist\u00ed, \u017ee posledn\u00ed „must see“ je d\u00e1l ne\u017e jste mysleli, nebo \u017ee autobus jaksi nejezd\u00ed podle j\u00edzdn\u00edho \u0159\u00e1du. Respektive, j\u00edzdn\u00ed \u0159\u00e1d? Co to je?<\/p>\n

\n
Tedy…<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
Pond\u011bln\u00ed st\u0159\u00edpky z Kyjeva.<\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n
\u010c\u00e1st prvn\u00ed: O tom, jak se Ukrajinci nestyd\u00ed za venkov<\/strong><\/div>\n
Posledn\u00ed den je t\u0159eba v\u011bnovat taky my\u0161len\u00ed na v\u00e1s, tam v dalek\u00e9 cizin\u011b, tedy n\u00e1kup pohled\u016f a suven\u00fdr\u016f.<\/div>\n
V Kyjev\u011b najdete mnoho obchod\u016f se suven\u00fdry. V z\u00e1sad\u011b jsou dva typy, c\u00edrkevn\u00ed a sv\u011btsk\u00e9. V t\u011bch c\u00edrkevn\u00edch, kter\u00e9 jsou v ka\u017ed\u00e9m chr\u00e1mu i kl\u00e1\u0161terech po\u0159\u00edd\u00edte v\u0161e od \u010dten\u00ed, k\u0159\u00ed\u017ek\u016f, ikon ti\u0161t\u011bn\u00fdch i psan\u00fdch a\u017e po kosteln\u00ed b\u00e1n\u011b na malou kapli. Ty sv\u011btsk\u00e9 se zam\u011b\u0159uj\u00ed na typick\u00e9 ukrajinsk\u00e9 malovan\u00e9 tal\u00ed\u0159e, d\u00f3zy, l\u017ei\u010dky, keramiku, kraslice, v\u00fd\u0161ivky. Na rozd\u00edl od t\u011bch hr\u016fz z \u010desk\u00fdch m\u011bst, jsou tohle opravdov\u00e9 v\u00fdstavn\u00ed s\u00edn\u011b, hrd\u011b reprezentuj\u00edc\u00ed ukrajinskou kulturu. Fascinuje mne, jak Ukrajinci dok\u00e1\u017e\u00ed s citem pro lidov\u00fd motiv tento vyu\u017e\u00edt i na v\u011bcech denn\u00ed pot\u0159eby. Prost\u00e1 v\u00fd\u0161ivka um\u00ed ud\u011blat par\u00e1du. U n\u00e1s je bohu\u017eel toto v\u00e1z\u00e1no tak na skanzeny. P\u0159itom t\u0159eba takov\u00e9 kraslice! Um\u00ed je v Lu\u017eick\u00e9m Budy\u0161\u00edn\u011b, um\u00ed je na Ukrajin\u011b, um\u00edme je i my v \u010cesku, dokonce mal\u00e9re\u010dky maj\u00ed titul nositel um\u011bleck\u00e9 tradice, ale kde jsou? V matrjo\u0161k\u00e1ch v Karlov\u011b ulici v Praze? V tri\u010dk\u00e1ch s Kafkou? Jist\u011b i v Kyjev\u011b m\u016f\u017eete taky po\u0159\u00eddit \u0161\u00edlenosti typu matrjo\u0161ky v podob\u011b Darth Vadera, nebo Mein Kampfu, kter\u00fd nab\u00edz\u00ed sta\u0159\u00edk na Majdanu kolemjdouc\u00edm mlad\u00edk\u016fm, nebo bl\u00e1zniv\u00e9ho zbyte\u010dn\u00e9ho malovan\u00e9ho palc\u00e1tu, kter\u00fd maj\u00ed snad v ka\u017ed\u00e9m obchod\u011b, ale po\u0159\u00edd\u00edte tu tak\u00e9 v\u011bci, ve kter\u00fdch je kus Ukrajiny. T\u011bch obiln\u00fdch a slune\u010dnicov\u00fdch l\u00e1n\u016f pod modr\u00fdm nebem.<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
\u010c\u00e1st druh\u00e1: Vydubeck\u00fd monast\u00fdr<\/strong><\/div>\n
Je-li na v\u00e1s v Pe\u010dersk\u00e9 l\u00e1v\u0159e nebo jin\u00fdch svatost\u00e1nc\u00edch Kyjeva moc ru\u0161no, vydejte se do Vydubeck\u00e9ho monast\u00fdru. Cesta sem nen\u00ed snadn\u00e1, proto\u017ee jako obvykle, kdy\u017e je n\u011bkde p\u011bkn\u011b, nejezd\u00ed tam ani metro ani bus nebo mar\u0161rutka. Do monast\u00fdru mus\u00edte bu\u010f p\u011b\u0161ky p\u0159es botanickou zahradu ze stanice metra\u00a0 Dru\u017eby n\u00e1rod\u016f nebo, jako my, tax\u00edkem. Ano, je to zh\u00fd\u010dkanost, ale kdy\u017e mus\u00edte je\u0161t\u011b st\u00edhat letadlo, je to dobr\u00e1 volba. Kl\u00e1\u0161ter je vskutku za\u0161it\u00fd v les\u00edku na svahu nad Dn\u011bprem. Kdy\u017e na hotelu objedn\u00e1v\u00e1m tax\u00edk, ov\u011b\u0159uje si pan\u00ed na recepci, kde \u017ee to vlastn\u011b ten kl\u00e1\u0161ter je. P\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme k tax\u00edku. \u0158idi\u010d sed\u00ed s mapou m\u011bsta na kl\u00edn\u011b a hled\u00e1, kdepak je ta zapeklit\u00e1 destinace. Uk\u00e1\u017eu mu to na map\u011b v telefonu. Vypad\u00e1 to, \u017ee tam pojede poprv\u00e9 v \u017eivot\u011b. P\u0159itom je to po Pe\u010dersk\u00e9 l\u00e1v\u0159e jeden z nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch kl\u00e1\u0161ter\u016f Kyjeva.<\/div>\n
Kdy\u017e kyjevan\u00e9 dovlekli sochu Peruna Ond\u0159ejsk\u00fdm \u00favozem k Dn\u011bpru a vhodili ji do vod, mnoz\u00ed z t\u011bch, kte\u0159\u00ed neopustili starou v\u00edru byli zklaman\u00ed a modlili se ke sv\u00fdm boh\u016fm. Perunova socha se pak pr\u00fd skute\u010dn\u011b vyno\u0159ila\u00a0z vod pr\u00e1v\u011b na \u00farovni Vydubeck\u00e9ho kl\u00e1\u0161tera.\u00a0 Ukrajinsk\u00e9 slovo\u00a0\u0412\u0438\u0434\u043e\u0431\u0438\u0447\u0456 tak ozna\u010duje „m\u00edsto vyno\u0159en\u00ed“.<\/div>\n
Kl\u00e1\u0161ter je o\u00e1zou. Upravenost\u00ed p\u016fsob\u00ed sp\u00ed\u0161 jako kl\u00e1\u0161ter n\u011bkde v Rakousku. Chr\u00e1my jsou obklopeny kr\u00e1snou a udr\u017eovanou kv\u011btinovou v\u00fdsadbou. R\u016f\u017ee, japonsk\u00e9 sasanky, lilie… Je tu klid a p\u0159itom nechyb\u00ed v\u016fn\u011b sv\u00ed\u010dek a oleje, zlato ikon i cibulov\u00fdch b\u00e1n\u00ed a z\u00e1stupy svat\u00fdch.<\/div>\n
Z kl\u00e1\u0161tera se d\u00e1 vy\u0161plhat na kopec p\u0159es N\u00e1rodn\u00ed botanickou zahradu. Mo\u017en\u00e1 po v\u00e1s budou cht\u00edt vstupn\u00e9 u doln\u00ed br\u00e1ny. My jsme ov\u0161em byli dva exoti s kufry, tak\u017ee vr\u00e1tn\u00fd pochopil, \u017ee si nejdeme u\u017e\u00edvat kr\u00e1sy zahrady, ale bereme to zkratkou na autobus, resp. metro, a nic necht\u011bl. Up\u0159\u00edmn\u011b, botanick\u00e1 zahrada nestoj\u00ed ani za ten mal\u00fd poplatek. Velk\u00e9 ambice a bohu\u017eel rozpa\u010dit\u00fd dojem.<\/div>\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Stropn\u00ed fresky v chr\u00e1mu sv. Ji\u0159\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Interi\u00e9r chr\u00e1mu sv. Ji\u0159\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Sv. Michael – archand\u011bl<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Chr\u00e1m sv. Michaela – archand\u011bla.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Zvonice s hv\u011bzdnatou b\u00e1n\u00ed a chr\u00e1m sv. Ji\u0159\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
V\u00fdhled na kl\u00e1\u0161ter z botanick\u00e9 zahrady.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Kyjev – Matka – Maria<\/strong><\/div>\n
Rozpaky si ale z Kyjeva neodv\u00e1\u017e\u00edm. P\u0159ed p\u00e1r lety jsem psal o Tbilisi, jak je to hrd\u00e1 kr\u00e1ska v roztrhan\u00fdch pun\u010doch\u00e1ch. S Kyjevem je to podobn\u00e9. Je to kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 a hrd\u00e9 m\u011bsto, navzdory hnusn\u00fdm star\u00fdm panelov\u00fdm i soudob\u00fdm s\u00eddli\u0161t\u00edm. Je to m\u00edsto, kde se potk\u00e1v\u00e1 st\u00e1le \u017eiv\u00e1 tradice s dne\u0161kem. Kde vdovy oplak\u00e1vaj\u00ed sv\u00e9 mrtv\u00e9 a matky syny, ale z\u00e1rove\u0148 se um\u00ed bavit. Jakoby v duchu evangelia: Kdy\u017e se post\u00ed\u0161, poma\u017e si hlavu olejem a umyj si tv\u00e1\u0159.<\/div>\n
Mo\u017en\u00e1 je skute\u010dn\u011b Kyjev jako matka, jin\u00e1 ne\u017e ta, co stoj\u00ed nad Dn\u011bprem u Pe\u010dersk\u00e9 l\u00e1vry. Matka, kter\u00e1 ztratila mnoho syn\u016f, p\u0159esto v\u0161ak stoj\u00ed rovn\u011b a pevn\u011b a jej\u00ed tv\u00e1\u0159 zbr\u00e1zd\u011bn\u00e1 vr\u00e1skami starost\u00ed hled\u00ed k obzoru. Proto\u017ee v\u011b\u0159\u00ed, \u017ee po de\u0161ti a bou\u0159i p\u0159ijde zase jasn\u00e9 slunce a obloha zmodr\u00e1 a obil\u00ed zezl\u00e1tne.<\/div>\n
Ikona Bohorodice.<\/div>\n
\u00a0\"\"<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Budu se opakovat, ale posledn\u00ed dny v\u00fdlet\u016f a cest jsou chudinky. Dostane se na n\u011b v\u017edy a\u017e s odstupem. V\u011bt\u0161inou za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed bal\u00edc\u00edm stresem, pak pokra\u010duj\u00ed podivnou nostalgi\u00ed, kdy m\u00e1 \u010dlov\u011bk pocit, \u017ee n\u011bco nesm\u00edrn\u011b z\u00e1sadn\u00edho ztr\u00e1c\u00ed, a kon\u010d\u00ed r\u016fzn\u00fdmi podivn\u00fdmi \u00faprky na leti\u0161t\u011b nebo n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed, to kdy\u017e se zjist\u00ed, \u017ee posledn\u00ed „must see“ je d\u00e1l … <\/p>\n

Pokra\u010dovat ve \u010dten\u00ed „Pond\u011bln\u00ed st\u0159\u00edpky z Kyjeva“<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1514"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1514"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1514\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1646,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1514\/revisions\/1646"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1514"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1514"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1514"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}