{"id":1898,"date":"2018-12-22T11:39:42","date_gmt":"2018-12-22T10:39:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=1898"},"modified":"2018-12-22T11:39:42","modified_gmt":"2018-12-22T10:39:42","slug":"lipsko","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/12\/22\/lipsko\/","title":{"rendered":"Lipsko"},"content":{"rendered":"<div dir=\"auto\">Lipsko. Na prvn\u00ed pohled to nen\u00ed \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 krasavice. M\u011bsto je docela roztahan\u00e9, mezi jednotliv\u00fdmi \u010d\u00e1stmi jsou roztodivn\u00e9 proluky a brownfieldy. Nechyb\u00ed nep\u0159\u00edli\u0161 vzhledn\u00e1 architektura druh\u00e9 poloviny 20. stolet\u00ed. P\u0159esto jsem z m\u011bsta nad\u0161en a mysl\u00edm, \u017ee to je fajn\u00e9 m\u00edsto k \u017eivotu.<\/div>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Historie tu promlouv\u00e1, ani\u017e by to musel b\u00fdt skanzen pln\u00fd turist\u016f. I kdy\u017e i turist\u016f je v centru dost, ale po\u0159\u00e1d tu zb\u00fdv\u00e1 prostor i pro m\u00edstn\u00ed.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Bydl\u00edme u kamar\u00e1d\u016f na severn\u00edm okraji m\u011bsta. Je to tu trochu jako u n\u00e1s. Panelov\u00e9 s\u00eddli\u0161t\u011b, nedaleko zahr\u00e1dk\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e1 kolonie, kde si m\u016f\u017eete od m\u00edstn\u00edho m\u011bstsk\u00e9ho zahr\u00e1dk\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9ho svazu pronajmout za rozumnou cenu pozemek. Podm\u00ednkou je, \u017ee 50% plochy mus\u00edte vyu\u017e\u00edvat pro p\u011bstov\u00e1n\u00ed zeleniny. Stoj\u00ed tu star\u00fd vodojem, kter\u00fd nezbourali, ale upravili na lezeck\u00fd r\u00e1j. Leze se zven\u010d\u00ed i uvnit\u0159.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Do centra v\u00e1s snadno p\u0159eprav\u00ed tramvaj nebo p\u0159\u00edm\u011bstsk\u00fd vlak (S-bahn). V\u00fdhodou je, \u017ee vlak v centru zajede pod zem, tak\u017ee neru\u0161\u00ed. Vystoupit z \u00fapln\u011b nov\u00e9 jednoduch\u00e9 ale elegantn\u00ed stanice m\u016f\u017eete p\u0159\u00edmo na hlavn\u00edm n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed v centru nejcentrovat\u011bj\u0161\u00edm. S vlakem dojedete samoz\u0159ejm\u011b i na leti\u0161t\u011b. Syst\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edm\u011bstsk\u00fdch linek propojuje \u010dty\u0159i spolkov\u00e9 zem\u011b. O v\u00edkendu m\u016f\u017eete na va\u0161i &#8222;l\u00edta\u010dku&#8220; vz\u00edt i kamar\u00e1da, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b ji p\u016fj\u010dit, je p\u0159enosn\u00e1.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Dob\u0159e, ale kv\u016fli syst\u00e9mu MHD asi do Lipska nepojedete, pokud tedy nejste \u0161otou\u0161i.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Kdy\u017e vynech\u00e1m veletrhy, co v Lipsku?<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Za ty dva dny, co jsme tu pobyli, se mi Lipskem t\u00e1hly dv\u011b stuhy.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\"><\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Ta prvn\u00ed stuha je pochopiteln\u011b hudebn\u00ed. Lipsko, to je nejen Bach, ale i Schumann,\u00a0 Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy, Wagner, Grieg a Mahler. Na vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9m Bachov\u011b festivalu vystupuj\u00ed i \u010de\u0161t\u00ed um\u011blci, o kter\u00fdch se ale, pro mne z nepochopiteln\u00fdch d\u016fvod\u016f, do\u010dtete v \u010cech\u00e1ch jen v odborn\u00fdch \u010dasopisech, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b je znaj\u00ed milovn\u00edci star\u00e9 hudby. U n\u00e1s budeme donekone\u010dna rotovat Evu Urbanovou, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b papal\u00e1\u0161i z Hradu vyt\u00e1hnou \u00fapln\u011b nepochopiteln\u011b H\u016flku, zat\u00edmco o opravdov\u00fdch \u010desk\u00fdch hv\u011bzd\u00e1ch na sv\u011btov\u00fdch p\u00f3di\u00edch se na\u0161inci skoro nedozv\u00ed. P\u0159itom takov\u00e1 Hanka Bla\u017e\u00edkov\u00e1 na Bachov\u011b festivalu zp\u00edv\u00e1 pod veden\u00edm v\u011bhlasn\u00e9ho Johna Eliota Gardinera Bachovy kant\u00e1ty a skl\u00edz\u00ed \u00fasp\u011bchy mezin\u00e1rodn\u00edho namlsan\u00e9ho publika. Holt za t\u011bmi Kru\u0161n\u00fdmi horami je \u0161ir\u00fd sv\u011bt, kter\u00fd vypad\u00e1 trochu jinak, ne\u017e se n\u00e1m ba\u0159tip\u00e1n sna\u017e\u00ed namluvit.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Hudebn\u00ed stuha proch\u00e1z\u00ed formou v\u00fdborn\u011b ud\u011blan\u00e9 nau\u010dn\u00e9 stezky v\u010detn\u011b hudebn\u00edch uk\u00e1zek cel\u00fdm Lipskem. Zastavuje se v kostelech i v kav\u00e1rn\u00e1ch, kde se k\u00e1v\u011b holdovalo u\u017e d\u00e1vno prad\u00e1vno. T\u0159eba kav\u00e1rna Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum va\u0159\u00ed k\u00e1vu od roku 1711 a pat\u0159\u00ed tak k nejstar\u0161\u00edm podnik\u016fm sv\u00e9ho druhu v Evrop\u011b. Chod\u00edvali sem Schumann, Bach i Goethe. V Zimmermannschen Kaffeehaus zase zn\u011bla Bachova K\u00e1vov\u00e1 kant\u00e1ta.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\"><\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Tou druhou stuhou je stuha vzdoru a boj\u016f. Roku 1813 se u Lipska st\u0159etly arm\u00e1dy Rakouska, Ruska, Pruska a \u0160v\u00e9dska s Napoleonovou arm\u00e1dou. B\u011bhem hodin tady zahynulo na sto tis\u00edc mu\u017e\u016f. Ob\u011bti p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 ob\u0159\u00ed pam\u00e1tn\u00edk postaven\u00fd ke st\u00e9mu v\u00fdro\u010d\u00ed bitvy v roce 1913. Je to velmi zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed monument\u00e1ln\u00ed stavba (nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed sv\u00e9ho druhu v Evrop\u011b), kter\u00e9 se atmosf\u00e9ra ned\u00e1 up\u0159\u00edt.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Nem\u00e9n\u011b p\u016fsobiv\u00e9 a pro mne nezn\u00e1m\u00e9 byly pak\u00a0 obrazy z ned\u00e1vn\u00e9 historie spojen\u00e9 s tzv. Friedliche revolution v N\u011bmecku. P\u00e1d komunistick\u00e9ho re\u017eimu a sjednocov\u00e1n\u00ed N\u011bmecka p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 v Lipsku stezka po stop\u00e1ch (nejen) roku 1989. \u00dapln\u011b friedlich to tedy nebylo, ale vzhledem k tomu, \u017ee se \u010d\u00e1st protest\u016f mohla kv\u016fli vybaven\u00ed z\u00e1sahov\u00fdch jednotek na na\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed ke st\u0159elb\u011b zvrhnout v krveprolit\u00ed, to nakonec ozna\u010den\u00ed &#8222;m\u00edrov\u00e1&#8220; revoluce snese. Do t\u00e9to cesty ke svobod\u011b pat\u0159\u00ed i monument\u00e1ln\u00ed a uvnit\u0159 p\u0159ekr\u00e1sn\u00fd univerzitn\u00ed kostel sv. Pavla, dokon\u010den\u00fd teprve v lo\u0148sk\u00e9m roce. Je sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed univerzitn\u00edho are\u00e1lu prastar\u00e9 univerzity v Lipsku. Je tak trochu staronov\u00fd. St\u00e1val zde toti\u017e gotick\u00fd kostel, kter\u00fd a\u010d p\u0159e\u017eil hr\u016fzy 2. sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky, nep\u0159e\u017eil \u0159\u00e1d\u011bn\u00ed komunistick\u00e9ho re\u017eimu. Z politick\u00e9ho rozhodnut\u00ed byl tento gotick\u00fd klenot roku 1968 sprost\u011b odst\u0159elen, spolu s n\u011bkolika dal\u0161\u00edmi budovami.\u00a0 Novostavba kostela v sob\u011b zahrnuje n\u011bkolik zachr\u00e1n\u011bn\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed star\u00e9ho kostela, trvala deset let, n\u00e1klady byly pochopiteln\u011b vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e se odhadovalo, ale v\u00fdsledek je holdem \u010distot\u011b, kr\u00e1se. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 v\u0161ak z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159ipom\u00ednkou komunistick\u00e9 zv\u016fle a vzdoru v\u016f\u010di n\u00ed.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\"><\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">A proto\u017ee do stuh se hod\u00ed vetknout i n\u011bjak\u00e9 kv\u011bty, neodpust\u00edm si pozn\u00e1mku o Lipsku sv\u011b\u017e\u00edm, zelen\u00e9m. Na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00edch tu jsou vodn\u00ed prvky, co\u017e je v t\u011bchto \u00famorn\u00fdch dnech skv\u011bl\u00e9. Font\u00e1na &#8222;p\u0159et\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00ed trp\u011blivosti&#8220; p\u0159ed Nikolaikirche je sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed instalac\u00ed p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00edch rok 1989, ale jsou tu i dal\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsta. Nu a stromy jsou dal\u0161\u00ed zaj\u00edmavost\u00ed. Lipsko m\u00e1 program adopce strom\u016f. Za p\u0159\u00edsp\u011bvek m\u016f\u017eete adoptovat strom. Jednoduch\u00e9. M\u011bsto m\u00e1 pl\u00e1n rozvoje, tak\u017ee si prost\u011b vyberete m\u00edsto a p\u0159isp\u011bjete na novou v\u00fdsadbu. Odm\u011bnou k dobr\u00e9mu pocitu v\u00e1m bude plaketa u stromu, je tu i mo\u017enost stromem n\u011bkoho p\u0159ipomenout. Takov\u00e9 m\u011bsto si pak m\u016f\u017ee \u0159\u00edkat Baumstarke Stadt, proto\u017ee vid\u00edte, a d\u00edky st\u00ednu v ulic\u00edch, kter\u00e9 by jinak \u017ehnuly v poledn\u00edm letn\u00edm \u017e\u00e1ru, i c\u00edt\u00edte p\u0159\u00ednosy vzrostl\u00e9 zelen\u011b a nen\u00ed to jen pl\u00e1c\u00e1n\u00ed z radnice.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">To\u017e douf\u00e1m, na vid\u011bnou, Lipsko!<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Lipsko. Na prvn\u00ed pohled to nen\u00ed \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 krasavice. M\u011bsto je docela roztahan\u00e9, mezi jednotliv\u00fdmi \u010d\u00e1stmi jsou roztodivn\u00e9 proluky a brownfieldy. Nechyb\u00ed nep\u0159\u00edli\u0161 vzhledn\u00e1 architektura druh\u00e9 poloviny 20. stolet\u00ed. P\u0159esto jsem z m\u011bsta nad\u0161en a mysl\u00edm, \u017ee to je fajn\u00e9 m\u00edsto k \u017eivotu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[83,84],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1898"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1898"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1898\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1899,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1898\/revisions\/1899"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1898"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1898"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1898"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}