{"id":1907,"date":"2018-12-22T11:56:08","date_gmt":"2018-12-22T10:56:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=1907"},"modified":"2018-12-22T12:11:59","modified_gmt":"2018-12-22T11:11:59","slug":"den-paty-ponferrada-villafranca-del-bierzo-233-km","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/12\/22\/den-paty-ponferrada-villafranca-del-bierzo-233-km\/","title":{"rendered":"Den p\u00e1t\u00fd. Ponferrada &#8211; Villafranca del Bierzo. 23,3 km."},"content":{"rendered":"<div dir=\"auto\">\u00dadajn\u011b odpo\u010dinkov\u011bj\u0161\u00ed den. Pr\u00fd po rovin\u011b. No&#8230; po zvln\u011bn\u00e9 rovin\u011b.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Ale od za\u010d\u00e1tku. V\u010dera jsem v\u00e1m nenapsal nic o Ponferrad\u011b. Inu, nen\u00ed moc co. Je to takov\u00e9 podivn\u00e9 m\u011bsto. P\u0159esto\u017ee je jedn\u00edm z velk\u00fdch kor\u00e1lk\u016f na r\u016f\u017eenci camina franc\u00e9s, nen\u00ed to \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 perla. V centru je hrad po templ\u00e1\u0159\u00edch a bazilika. Nev\u00edm, \u010d\u00edm to je, ale ty templ\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u011bci jsou snad v\u0161ude na sv\u011bt\u011b stejn\u011b k\u00fd\u010dovit\u00e9. Spousta humbuku kolem a p\u0159itom&#8230; kdyby se tu aspo\u0148 bylo kde naj\u00edst, ale i to je dost b\u00edda. Jedin\u00fdmi bonusy bylo velmi komfortn\u00ed bydlen\u00ed a setk\u00e1n\u00ed s opravdov\u00fdm templ\u00e1\u0159em v boud\u011b na k\u0159i\u017eovatce. Bouda nem\u011bla okna, zato na n\u00ed byl n\u00e1pis, \u017ee to je ou\u0159ad pro camino. Jdem si pro raz\u00edtko. Uvnit\u0159 sed\u00ed u\u017e tak od 14. stolet\u00ed jist\u00fd Roger. Sc\u00e9na z Indiana Jonese a posledn\u00ed k\u0159\u00ed\u017eov\u00e9 v\u00fdpravy. Roger ob\u0159adn\u011b prohl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed credencialy. Pak do jak\u00e9si kroniky v\u00fdpln\u00ed v\u0161echny \u00fadaje. Odkud jdeme, odkud jsme&#8230; Radk\u016fv credetial pr\u00fd nen\u00ed ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed. Je t\u0159eba to zdokumentovat, ov\u011b\u0159it. Kdy\u017e u\u017e n\u011bkolik stolet\u00ed sed\u00edte v d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 boud\u011b a poutn\u00edci proud\u00ed bez pov\u0161imnut\u00ed kolem v\u00e1s, mus\u00edte se na t\u011bch t\u0159ech zv\u011bdavc\u00edch vy\u0159\u00e1dit. Na z\u00e1v\u011br kontroly ov\u0161em p\u0159ijde sladk\u00e1 odm\u011bna. Ob\u0159\u00ed sello (raz\u00edtko) do pasu. Templ\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fd k\u0159\u00ed\u017e zabere 4 pol\u00ed\u010dka. Roger p\u0159ipoj\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00edm zp\u016fsobem datum a podpis.<\/div>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<div dir=\"auto\"><\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">R\u00e1no vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme lehce po \u0161est\u00e9 sm\u011br Villafranca. Zakr\u00e1tko jsme na p\u0159edm\u011bst\u00ed. A ejhle, kone\u010dn\u011b se vrac\u00ed p\u011bkn\u00e9 zna\u010den\u00ed a objevuj\u00ed se i p\u011bkn\u00e9 domy. Compostilla. D\u011bl\u00e1me si legraci, \u017ee u\u017e je to skoro Compostela. Cesta podejde silnici a kolem h\u0159bitova vede k dal\u0161\u00ed vesnici a pak po rovin\u011b mezi drobn\u00fdmi pol\u00ed\u010dky a zahradami. Sledujeme zavla\u017eovac\u00ed kan\u00e1l, ze kter\u00e9ho se k pol\u00ed\u010dk\u016fm rozb\u00edhaj\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed vodn\u00ed stu\u017eky. P\u0159esto\u017ee silnice je lok\u00e1ln\u00ed spojka, je tu dost provoz. Zd\u00e1 se, \u017ee \u0159idi\u010di si tu zkracuj\u00ed cestu, kdy\u017e necht\u011bj\u00ed platit za d\u00e1lnici, kter\u00e1 vede t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 soub\u011b\u017en\u011b. Berou ale velk\u00fd ohled na poutn\u00edky. \u0158idi\u010di mnohokr\u00e1t zastav\u00ed a nechaj\u00ed v\u00e1s p\u0159ej\u00edt, i kdy\u017e jdete t\u0159eba na \u010dervenou. Nespol\u00e9hal bych na to, ale d\u011bje se to.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Kone\u010dn\u011b naraz\u00edme na prvn\u00ed otev\u0159enou kav\u00e1rnu. Sn\u00edda\u0148ov\u00e9\u00a0cortado je ritu\u00e1l zpravidla tak po hodin\u011b a\u017e dvou od startu. Sedm\u00e1 nebo osm\u00e1 r\u00e1no je ve \u0160pan\u011blsku p\u016flnoc. Na caminu ale na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed v\u017edy naraz\u00edte na podniky, kter\u00e9 otev\u00edraj\u00ed brzo. V\u011bd\u00ed to i m\u00edstn\u00ed. Pro\u010d srkat kafe doma, kdy\u017e za euro m\u016f\u017eete podpo\u0159it m\u00edstn\u00ed podnik.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Po sn\u00eddani pokra\u010dujeme. Jdeme v\u011bt\u0161\u00edm m\u011bste\u010dkem po hlavn\u00ed ru\u0161n\u00e9 ulici. Na konci obce cesta uhne a m\u00edj\u00edme prvn\u00ed vina\u0159stv\u00ed. P\u0159ejdeme po most\u011b d\u00e1lnici a tam za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed vinice, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1s budou prov\u00e1zet a\u017e do c\u00edle dne\u0161n\u00ed etapy. Vinohrady v\u0161ude, kam se pod\u00edv\u00e1\u0161. Krajina je kopcovit\u00e1. Mezi vinohrady ob\u010das olivov\u00fd h\u00e1j, pruh topol\u016f kolem potoka. T\u0159e\u0161\u0148ov\u00fd sad. F\u00edkovn\u00edky, jedl\u00e9 ka\u0161tany, borovice. Na obzoru b\u00edl\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty hor. Cesta stoup\u00e1 a kles\u00e1, obkru\u017euje kopce, zano\u0159uje se do les\u00edk\u016f v \u00fadol\u00edch a zase \u0161plh\u00e1 na vrcholy kopc\u016f, aby poutn\u00edk\u016fm nab\u00eddla v\u00fdhledy do kraje.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Villafranca del Bierzo je kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 prastar\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko. Kamenn\u00e9 domy a pal\u00e1ce, malebn\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, n\u011bkolik kostel\u016f a kl\u00e1\u0161ter\u016f a zbytky tvrze. N\u00e1\u0161 albergue je zat\u00edm nejmalebn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ze v\u0161ech p\u0159edchoz\u00edch. Star\u00fd kamenn\u00fd pal\u00e1c s du\u0161\u00ed. Mal\u00e9 atrium pro posezen\u00ed u v\u00edna. V\u0161e citliv\u011b a kr\u00e1sn\u011b rekonstruov\u00e1no. Rodinn\u00fd podnik. Nep\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1m se divit, jak skv\u011bl\u00e9 a \u010dist\u00e9 ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed lze nab\u00edzet poutn\u00edk\u016fm za sm\u011b\u0161nou cenu. Plat\u00edte jak v \u010desk\u00e9m kempu, dost\u00e1v\u00e1te ale v podstat\u011b stylov\u00fd hotel. &#8222;Aha, vy te\u010f nem\u00e1te drobn\u00e9! Nevad\u00ed, zaplat\u00edte mi to pozd\u011bji a\u017e rozm\u011bn\u00edte.&#8220; Dnes jsme na pokoji jen \u010dty\u0159i. Budeme m\u00edt francouzskokanadskou spole\u010dnost. Camino toti\u017e obch\u00e1z\u00ed cel\u00fd sv\u011bt.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\"><\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">\n<p>Po dni mezi vinohrady kone\u010dn\u011b na peregrino menu a pak na v\u00edno.<\/p>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Peregrino menu je dal\u0161\u00ed z vymo\u017eenost\u00ed pro poutn\u00edky. Po p\u0159edlo\u017een\u00ed credencialu, poutnick\u00e9ho pasu, m\u00e1te n\u00e1rok na menu v restauraci. Camino je i gastronomick\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek. Menu je prvn\u00ed a druh\u00fd chod, dezert, chl\u00e9b, voda a l\u00e1hev v\u00edna pro dva. Nen\u00ed to \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 \u0161koln\u00ed j\u00eddelna. Takhle v \u010cech\u00e1ch zpravidla neva\u0159\u00ed ani v lep\u0161\u00edch restaurac\u00edch.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Dnes bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t s tu\u0148\u00e1kem a vejcem, ryba (merluza) v paprikov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dce s bramborem, vanilkov\u00fd dezert s l\u00e1man\u00fdmi su\u0161enkami a karamelem. V\u00fdb\u011br b\u00fdv\u00e1 zpravidla ze 4 a\u017e 5 j\u00eddel. Cel\u00e1 ta radost v\u010detn\u011b l\u00e1hve v\u00edna vych\u00e1z\u00ed obvykle na 10 euro. Obsluhuje n\u00e1s usm\u011bvav\u00e1 Cecilia Bartoli. \u010cek\u00e1m, kdy vyst\u0159ihne n\u011bjakou and\u011blskou \u00e1rii, proto\u017ee to je nebesky dobr\u00e9.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Dnes byl den vinohrad\u016f a z\u00edtra bude hodn\u011b n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd den (v\u00fdstup do hor, zima a asi de\u0161\u0165), zapadli jsme je\u0161t\u011b na ko\u0161t m\u00edstn\u00edho v\u00edna z oblasti Bierzo do vinot\u00e9ky.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Majitelka je \u0159\u00e1dn\u00e1 \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e1 &#8222;je\u017eibaba&#8220;. Pochopiteln\u011b v\u00fdrazn\u011b nal\u00ed\u010den\u00e1. S \u010derven\u00fdmi br\u00fdlemi, r\u016f\u017eov\u00fdm tri\u010dkem, zlatou sponou na opasku a plst\u011bnou beru\u0161kou na klop\u011b \u010dern\u00e9ho s\u00e1\u010dka. \u017dv\u00fdka\u010dka a o pauze c\u00edgo.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Objedn\u00e1me si po skleni\u010dce. K v\u00ednu zcela samoz\u0159ejm\u011b dostaneme kousek chleba s modropl\u00eds\u0148ov\u00fdm s\u00fdrem. Namazala jej tak p\u0159ed t\u00fddnem. Je luxusn\u00ed. A v\u00edno jakbysmet.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00dadajn\u011b odpo\u010dinkov\u011bj\u0161\u00ed den. Pr\u00fd po rovin\u011b. No&#8230; po zvln\u011bn\u00e9 rovin\u011b. Ale od za\u010d\u00e1tku. V\u010dera jsem v\u00e1m nenapsal nic o Ponferrad\u011b. Inu, nen\u00ed moc co. Je to takov\u00e9 podivn\u00e9 m\u011bsto. P\u0159esto\u017ee je jedn\u00edm z velk\u00fdch kor\u00e1lk\u016f na r\u016f\u017eenci camina franc\u00e9s, nen\u00ed to \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 perla. V centru je hrad po templ\u00e1\u0159\u00edch a bazilika. Nev\u00edm, \u010d\u00edm to je, &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/12\/22\/den-paty-ponferrada-villafranca-del-bierzo-233-km\/\" class=\"more-link\">Pokra\u010dovat ve \u010dten\u00ed<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8222;Den p\u00e1t\u00fd. Ponferrada &#8211; Villafranca del Bierzo. 23,3 km.&#8220;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[78],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1907"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1907"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1907\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1920,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1907\/revisions\/1920"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1907"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1907"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1907"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}