{"id":1911,"date":"2018-12-22T12:02:35","date_gmt":"2018-12-22T11:02:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=1911"},"modified":"2018-12-22T12:11:45","modified_gmt":"2018-12-22T11:11:45","slug":"den-sesty-villafranca-del-bierzo-linares-32-km","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/12\/22\/den-sesty-villafranca-del-bierzo-linares-32-km\/","title":{"rendered":"Den \u0161est\u00fd. Villafranca del Bierzo – Li\u00f1ares. 32 km"},"content":{"rendered":"
Opou\u0161t\u00edme kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 m\u011bsto Villafranca del Bierzo kr\u00e1tce po \u0161est\u00e9 hodin\u011b rann\u00ed. P\u0159es star\u00fd most do ka\u0148onu \u0159eky Valcarce. Zat\u00edmco koryto \u0159eky je v n\u011bjak\u00fdch 500 m nad mo\u0159em, okoln\u00ed kopce dosahuj\u00ed t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 800 m. \u00dadol\u00ed je \u00fazk\u00e9, camino vede po silnici, v\u00edc m\u00edsta tu nen\u00ed. V m\u00edstech, kde se ka\u0148on trochu rozev\u0159e jsou mal\u00e9 pastviny, sem tam star\u00fd ml\u00fdn s drobn\u00fdm pol\u00ed\u010dkem nebo zahr\u00e1dkou. Kdy\u017e se \u00fadol\u00ed otev\u0159e je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edc, zbyde i m\u00edsto na vesnici. I ta se v\u0161ak mus\u00ed spokojit jen s prostorem kolem silnice, tvo\u0159\u00ed ji tak pouze jedna \u010di dv\u011b ulice t\u00e1hnouc\u00ed se \u00fadol\u00edm. Mnoho dom\u016f je op\u011bt na prodej a v dezol\u00e1tn\u00edm stavu. Do \u00fadol\u00ed z\u00e1hy tunelem vpadne d\u00e1lnice A6 spojuj\u00edc\u00ed A Coru\u00f1u a Madrid. \u00dadol\u00edm se tak propl\u00e9taj\u00ed \u0159eka, star\u00e1 silnice s trasou camina, nov\u00e1 silnice, kter\u00e1 vede v\u011bt\u0161inu cesty v dimenz\u00edch t\u00e9 star\u00e9, jen ji roz\u0161i\u0159uje, a d\u00e1lnice. Ta vede v\u011bt\u0161inou po mostech, za\u0159ez\u00e1v\u00e1 se do strm\u00fdch svah\u016f nebo se provrt\u00e1v\u00e1 kopci tunely. \u0158eka Valcarce je hodn\u011b divok\u00e1, pln\u00e1 meandr\u016f a ostr\u016fvk\u016f. Cesta vede o n\u011bco v\u00fd\u0161 nad \u0159ekou, tak\u017ee vid\u00edme sp\u00ed\u0161 do korun strom\u016f. Po prav\u00e9 ruce se zvedaj\u00ed strm\u00e9 svahy s borovicemi a levandul\u00ed, po lev\u00e9 pad\u00e1 strm\u00fd svah do zelen\u00e9ho kr\u00e1lovstv\u00ed. Mohutn\u00e9 ol\u0161e, topoly, jilmy, ka\u0161tanovn\u00edky a o\u0159e\u0161\u00e1ky obr\u016fstaj\u00ed li\u0161ejn\u00edky, b\u0159e\u010d\u0165anem a plam\u00e9nkem. Je sly\u0161et zp\u011bv des\u00edtek pt\u00e1k\u016f a hu\u010den\u00ed vody. D\u00e1lnice tenhle koncert zat\u00edm p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 neru\u0161\u00ed, proto\u017ee je brzo r\u00e1no.<\/div>\n
Mezi vesnicemi cesta \u010dasto proch\u00e1z\u00ed ka\u0161tanovn\u00edkov\u00fdmi h\u00e1ji. V t\u011bchto rozm\u011brech jsme u n\u00e1s zvykl\u00ed v\u00eddat sp\u00ed\u0161e pam\u00e1tn\u00e9 l\u00edpy nebo duby. Star\u00e9 ka\u0161tanovn\u00edky jsou obrovsk\u00e9 obdiv bud\u00edc\u00ed stromy. Za malebnou vesni\u010dkou Las Herrer\u00edas de Valcarce camino kone\u010dn\u011b opou\u0161t\u00ed silnici a uh\u00fdb\u00e1 do vlhk\u00e9ho lesa. Cestou za\u010dalo pr\u0161et, p\u0159edpov\u011b\u010f nelhala. Chv\u00edli pr\u0161\u00ed, chv\u00edli je slun\u00ed\u010dko. Objev\u00ed se i duha. V lese cesta nejd\u0159\u00edv kles\u00e1 k mostu p\u0159es potok, aby pak mohla vy\u0161plhat p\u0159ev\u00fd\u0161en\u00ed 300 m do vesni\u010dky La Faba. \u0160plh\u00e1 se kamenit\u00fdm \u00favozem ve sv\u011b\u017e\u00edm lese dub\u016f, javor\u016f a ka\u0161tanovn\u00edk\u016f. Kolem cesty jsou kamenn\u00e9 z\u00eddky prokv\u00e9taj\u00edc\u00ed \u017elut\u00fdmi vla\u0161tovi\u010dn\u00edky a fialov\u00fdmi kakosty.<\/div>\n
V La Faba je \u010das na ob\u010derstven\u00ed. \u010cek\u00e1 n\u00e1s je\u0161t\u011b dal\u0161\u00edch 400 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f do vsi O Cebreiro.<\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n
Jak jsi kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 krajino, m\u00e1 nev\u011bsto.<\/div>\n
Tv\u016fj r\u016f\u017eov\u00fd \u0161at zahalen\u00fd b\u00edl\u00fdm z\u00e1vojem.<\/div>\n
Jako zelen\u00e1 suknice jsou pastviny,<\/div>\n
jako \u0161\u0148\u016fry perel jsou tv\u00e9 kamenn\u00e9\u00a0 z\u00eddky,<\/div>\n
jako zlat\u00e9 \u0161perky kv\u011bty kru\u010dinek,<\/div>\n
jako st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9 n\u00e1u\u0161nice b\u00edl\u00e9 ke\u0159e janovc\u016f.<\/div>\n
Na svatbu zvou zvonce na tv\u00fdch louk\u00e1ch<\/div>\n
a host\u00e9 p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00ed z bl\u00edzka i daleka, aby ti vzdali chv\u00e1lu.<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
V\u00fdstup na O Cebreiro je n\u00e1dhern\u00fd. Kr\u00e1sa nev\u00eddan\u00e1. Jen si mus\u00edte po\u010dkat, a\u017e se nev\u011bsta odhal\u00ed.<\/div>\n
A z \u010deho je ten b\u00edl\u00fd z\u00e1voj, krajino, m\u00e1 nev\u011bsto? Z mlhy, poutn\u00edku m\u016fj mil\u00fd, z mlhy. A kroupy jsou m\u00e9 perly a sn\u00edh je m\u00e1 krajka.<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Ano, ano, p\u0159edpov\u011b\u010f nelhala. Nejd\u0159\u00edv drobn\u00e9 krupky, jako obli\u010dejov\u00fd peeling, pak nefal\u0161ovan\u00fd sn\u00edh. Cesta se m\u011bn\u00ed v bahno, v\u00edtr fi\u010d\u00ed a \u017eene sn\u00edh poutn\u00edk\u016fm do obli\u010deje. Kdo vytrv\u00e1, spat\u0159\u00ed nev\u011bstu. Jako m\u00e1vnut\u00edm kouzeln\u00e9ho proutku ne\u010das pomine a vysvitne slunce a op\u0159e se plnou silou do svah\u016f. P\u00e1ra stoup\u00e1 nad such\u00fdmi rezav\u00fdmi porosty hasivek, nad z\u00e1\u0159iv\u00fdm zlatem kvetouc\u00ed kru\u010dinky, rozkvetl\u00fdmi janovci a r\u016f\u017eov\u00fdm mo\u0159em v\u0159esovc\u016f. Poutn\u00edci shazuj\u00ed pl\u00e1\u0161t\u011bnky a \u017easnou.<\/div>\n
Takov\u00e9 z\u00e1zraky se d\u011bj\u00ed na hranic\u00edch Galicie, do n\u00ed\u017e vstupujeme.<\/div>\n
O Cebreiro je prvn\u00ed vesnice v Galicii. Trochu turistick\u00e1. Vede sem silnice a kr\u00e1sa v\u00fdhled\u016f do kopc\u016f je tak dostupn\u00e1 v\u0161em. Na cen\u00e1ch v hostinc\u00edch to ale nepozn\u00e1te. Kafe je po\u0159\u00e1d za euro, empanada s tu\u0148\u00e1kem za 3,50 a pivo za p\u016fldruh\u00e9ho eura.<\/div>\n
Posledn\u00ed \u00fasek cesty je je\u0161t\u011b trochu do kopce a pak u\u017e po rovince a z kopce do Li\u00f1ares. Jdeme borov\u00fdm lesem, kde kvetou divok\u00e9 narcisy (tyhle jsme je\u0161t\u011b nepotkali), kand\u00edky a \u010deme\u0159ice, a kde ve st\u00ednu pod stromy st\u00e1le z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 sn\u00edh p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed prom\u011bnlivost zdej\u0161\u00edho po\u010das\u00ed. Ostatn\u011b, sn\u011b\u017eit dnes je\u0161t\u011b bude, ale to u\u017e budeme v teple albergu v Li\u00f1ares.<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Opou\u0161t\u00edme kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 m\u011bsto Villafranca del Bierzo kr\u00e1tce po \u0161est\u00e9 hodin\u011b rann\u00ed. P\u0159es star\u00fd most do ka\u0148onu \u0159eky Valcarce. Zat\u00edmco koryto \u0159eky je v n\u011bjak\u00fdch 500 m nad mo\u0159em, okoln\u00ed kopce dosahuj\u00ed t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 800 m. \u00dadol\u00ed je \u00fazk\u00e9, camino vede po silnici, v\u00edc m\u00edsta tu nen\u00ed. V m\u00edstech, kde se ka\u0148on trochu rozev\u0159e jsou mal\u00e9 pastviny, … <\/p>\n

Pokra\u010dovat ve \u010dten\u00ed „Den \u0161est\u00fd. Villafranca del Bierzo – Li\u00f1ares. 32 km“<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[78],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1911"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1911"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1911\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1919,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1911\/revisions\/1919"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1911"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1911"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1911"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}