{"id":1913,"date":"2018-12-22T12:07:48","date_gmt":"2018-12-22T11:07:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=1913"},"modified":"2018-12-22T12:11:15","modified_gmt":"2018-12-22T11:11:15","slug":"den-sedmy-linares-sarria-39-km","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/12\/22\/den-sedmy-linares-sarria-39-km\/","title":{"rendered":"Den sedm\u00fd. Li\u00f1ares-Sarria. 39 km."},"content":{"rendered":"<div dir=\"auto\">P\u016fvodn\u011b to m\u011bly b\u00fdt dv\u011b etapy, ale trochu jsme to upravili. Hrdinou dne je Radek, proto\u017ee s jeho puch\u00fd\u0159ema bych j\u00e1 nedo\u0161el ani do kr\u00e1mu, nato\u017e pak uj\u00edt t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 40 km.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Sn\u011b\u017een\u00ed bohu\u017eel neskon\u010dilo v\u010derej\u0161\u00edmi p\u0159eh\u00e1\u0148kami. Fouk\u00e1 studen\u00fd v\u00edtr a st\u0159\u00eddav\u011b padaj\u00ed krupky nebo mokr\u00e9 sn\u011bhov\u00e9 vlo\u010dky. Prost\u011b po\u010das\u00ed, kter\u00e9 ve \u0160pan\u011blsku v polovin\u011b kv\u011btna \u010dek\u00e1te. Kdy\u017e p\u0159ekro\u010d\u00edte hranice Galicie, neznamen\u00e1 to jen \u010d\u00e1ru na map\u011b, znamen\u00e1 to taky, \u017ee jste se p\u0159ehoupli na druhou stranu hor. Tu vlhkou, obr\u00e1cenou k Atlantiku. Nav\u00edc jde zrovna fronta, tak\u017ee nad 1000 metr\u016f sn\u011b\u017e\u00ed a pod 1000 metr\u016f pr\u0161\u00ed.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Nev\u011bsta, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1s v\u010dera nechala nakouknout pod z\u00e1voj, je dnes cudn\u011b zahalen\u00e1. Mlha se naho\u0159e bude dr\u017eet cel\u00fd den. Trochu v\u00fdhled bude, a\u017e slezeme n\u00ed\u017e.<\/div>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Galicie je n\u00e1dhern\u011b kopcovit\u00e1 a \u0161\u0165avnat\u011b zelen\u00e1. \u00dapln\u011b jin\u00fd sv\u011bt. P\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 sp\u00ed\u0161 Breta\u0148 nebo Skotsko. Cel\u00fd den str\u00e1v\u00edme p\u0159ech\u00e1zen\u00edm kopc\u016f pono\u0159en\u00ed v zeleni. Vrcholy jsou pokryty v\u0159esovi\u0161ti, pod nimi za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed lesy a pastviny. Pole jsou jen drobn\u00e1. Krajina je rozparcelovan\u00e1 kamenn\u00fdmi z\u00eddkami, pod\u00e9l kter\u00fdch jsou aleje strom\u016f. Cesty jsou zahlouben\u00e9 do \u00favoz\u016f mezi z\u00eddky a stromo\u0159ad\u00ed. Mezi pastvinami tedy v\u011bt\u0161inou kouk\u00e1te krav\u00e1m na nohy nebo ani to, proto\u017ee cesta je nez\u0159\u00eddka velmi hluboko za\u0159\u00edznut\u00e1 mezi skalky a t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 kolm\u00e9 svahy \u00favozu jsou zpevn\u011bn\u00e9 nasucho vyskl\u00e1dan\u00fdmi kameny. V\u0161ude bochany mech\u016f, kapradiny, li\u0161ejn\u00edky. Nad hlavou loub\u00ed z v\u011btv\u00ed dub\u016f a ka\u0161tanovn\u00edk\u016f. Cesty propojuj\u00ed vesnice a pastviny. Slou\u017e\u00ed nejen lidem, ale i krav\u00e1m, kdy\u017e jdou na pastvu. Pozn\u00e1te to velmi snadno&#8230;<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Vesnice vypadaj\u00ed, jako by se tu zastavil \u010das. V t\u011bch drsn\u00fdch podm\u00ednk\u00e1ch nen\u00ed moc divu. Brblat, \u017ee Katal\u00e1nsko t\u00e1hne ekonomiku, zat\u00edmco tady se lidi dloubou v nose, nen\u00ed \u00fapln\u011b f\u00e9r. Tohle opravdu nen\u00ed a nem\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt Barcelona. Plat\u00ed to pochopiteln\u011b o venkov\u011b obecn\u011b. Je dobr\u00e9 si to uv\u011bdomovat p\u0159i n\u00e1kupech potravin v pohodl\u00ed domova nebo v supermarketu ve m\u011bst\u011b.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">I tady je vid\u011bt, \u017ee vsi sp\u00ed\u0161e vym\u00edraj\u00ed. Mnoho dom\u016f je opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fdch, n\u011bkter\u00e9 u\u017e se sesuly k zemi.\u00a0 Vesnice tady v podh\u016f\u0159\u00ed jsou sev\u0159en\u00e9 tvrze. Kamenn\u00e1 neom\u00edtnut\u00e1 staven\u00ed s velk\u00fdmi st\u00e1jemi pro dobytek. St\u00e1je a hospod\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 budovy jsou v\u011bt\u0161inou z kamen\u016f skl\u00e1dan\u00fdch nasucho bez pojiva. B\u0159idlicov\u00e1 st\u0159echa. Zahr\u00e1dka s p\u00e1r \u0159\u00e1dky brambor a zeleniny. N\u011bkde maj\u00ed dost binec. T\u00edm nemysl\u00edm v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00e9 kravince a v\u016fni hnoje, ale sp\u00ed\u0161 rezav\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed vete\u0161, pneumatiky, plastov\u00e9 barely, rozbit\u00e9 p\u0159epravky a dal\u0161\u00ed haraburd\u00ed.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">\u010ceho je ale dobr\u00e9 si taky v\u0161imnout, jsou z\u00e1sobn\u00edky na vodu. Betonov\u00e9 \u010di kamenn\u00e9 rezervo\u00e1ry j\u00edmaj\u00ed svedenou de\u0161\u0165ovou vodu nebo vodu z horsk\u00fdch potok\u016f. Vody je tu te\u010f dostatek, ale je dobr\u00e9 si n\u011bco schovat na hor\u0161\u00ed \u010dasy.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Za cel\u00fd den potk\u00e1me minimum aut. Nen\u00ed divu, v\u011bt\u0161inu z dne\u0161n\u00edch t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 40 km chod\u00edme po \u00favozov\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch. Krajina je d\u00edky nim velmi dob\u0159e pr\u016fchoz\u00ed mimo silnice. Ob\u010das camino silnici p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed po vydl\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00e9m p\u0159echodu, aby se na druh\u00e9 stran\u011b cesty zase zano\u0159ilo mezi stromy, z\u00eddky a pastviny.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">A\u017e posledn\u00edch p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f do Sarrie u\u017e kop\u00edrujeme hlavn\u00ed silnici. Kdy\u017e se dohrabeme do na\u0161eho albergu, m\u00e1me toho oba tak akor\u00e1t. Je \u010das na teplou\u00a0 sprchu a relax.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\"><\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">\n<p>Zase jedna sonda z poutnick\u00e9 infrastruktury.<\/p>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Na\u0161e tradi\u010dn\u00ed k\u00e1vov\u00e1 zastaven\u00ed. Sn\u00edda\u0148ov\u00e1 i sva\u010dinov\u00e1.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">I v horsk\u00fdch vesni\u010dk\u00e1ch zpravidla funguje n\u011bjak\u00fd ten bar pro poutn\u00edky. Samoz\u0159ejmost\u00ed je po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9\u00a0 kafe za cenu nanejv\u00fd\u0161 1,2 Euro. Tortilla, \u010derstv\u00fd sendvi\u010d nebo bagetka, d\u017eus, zpravidla z \u010derstv\u00fdch pomeran\u010d\u016f. Ne, v 1200 metrech opravdu nemaj\u00ed pomeran\u010de na zahrad\u011b a stejn\u011b zvl\u00e1dnou v\u00edc ne\u017e Cappy nebo postmix. A to dokonce i dnes u Lenochoda, kter\u00fd byl i p\u0159esto,\u017ee tot\u00e1ln\u011b nest\u00edhal, mil\u00fd. Krom klasick\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka i tady vedou to bezlakt\u00f3zov\u00e9 nebo madlov\u00e9. Kousek buchty ke k\u00e1v\u011b se d\u00e1v\u00e1 jako pozornost.<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Ve\u010der na peregrino menu. Ob\u0159\u00ed porce sal\u00e1tu, chobotni\u010dky a zmrzlinov\u00fd dort. V\u00edno. Z kuchyn\u011b na n\u00e1s mrk\u00e1 teta, jestli to bylo dobr\u00fd. \u00dasm\u011bv. Majitel restaurace n\u00e1m p\u0159i odchodu pod\u00e1 ruku a pop\u0159eje &#8222;Buen camino!&#8220; i kdy\u017e nem\u00e1 d\u016fvod si myslet, \u017ee se vr\u00e1t\u00edme. Ke stolu vedle p\u0159inesl omylem je\u0161t\u011b jednu sklenici piva. &#8222;Ale my jsme si neobjednali! &#8220; h\u00e1j\u00ed se host\u00e9. &#8222;J\u00e9je, to se omlouv\u00e1m, tak to m\u00e1te na \u00fa\u010det podniku.&#8220; Budvarsk\u00e9 hospody v Bud\u011bjic\u00edch by t\u00edmto stylem zkrachovaly.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>P\u016fvodn\u011b to m\u011bly b\u00fdt dv\u011b etapy, ale trochu jsme to upravili. Hrdinou dne je Radek, proto\u017ee s jeho puch\u00fd\u0159ema bych j\u00e1 nedo\u0161el ani do kr\u00e1mu, nato\u017e pak uj\u00edt t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 40 km. Sn\u011b\u017een\u00ed bohu\u017eel neskon\u010dilo v\u010derej\u0161\u00edmi p\u0159eh\u00e1\u0148kami. Fouk\u00e1 studen\u00fd v\u00edtr a st\u0159\u00eddav\u011b padaj\u00ed krupky nebo mokr\u00e9 sn\u011bhov\u00e9 vlo\u010dky. Prost\u011b po\u010das\u00ed, kter\u00e9 ve \u0160pan\u011blsku v polovin\u011b kv\u011btna &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/12\/22\/den-sedmy-linares-sarria-39-km\/\" class=\"more-link\">Pokra\u010dovat ve \u010dten\u00ed<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8222;Den sedm\u00fd. Li\u00f1ares-Sarria. 39 km.&#8220;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[78],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1913"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1913"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1913\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1918,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1913\/revisions\/1918"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1913"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1913"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1913"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}