{"id":2036,"date":"2019-02-20T15:54:19","date_gmt":"2019-02-20T14:54:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=2036"},"modified":"2019-02-20T15:56:25","modified_gmt":"2019-02-20T14:56:25","slug":"mindo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2019\/02\/20\/mindo\/","title":{"rendered":"Mindo"},"content":{"rendered":"

V\u010dera civilizace, dnes jedeme do zelena. Nejd\u0159\u00edv se ale mus\u00edme dostat na severn\u00ed n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed, co\u017e p\u0159i hustot\u011b dopravy v rann\u00ed \u0161pi\u010dce zabere p\u0159es p\u016fl hodiny. Termin\u00e1l je t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 na kraji m\u011bsta. Jezd\u00ed tam m\u00edstn\u00ed duobus. Trolejbus, co ob\u010das jede na naftu. <\/span><\/p>\n

Je\u0161t\u011b ne\u017e se utop\u00edm v zelen\u00e9m l\u00ed\u010den\u00ed, stoj\u00ed za to se o n\u011bm \u0161otou\u0161sky zm\u00ednit. V Quitu krom s\u00edt\u011b autobus\u016f funguje p\u00e1te\u0159n\u00ed s\u00ed\u0165 duobus\u016f. Ceny jsou legra\u010dn\u00ed, tak\u017ee je po\u0159\u00e1d narv\u00e1no. Zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 jsou zv\u00fd\u0161en\u00e9 kryt\u00e9 zast\u00e1vky, kam se dostanete a\u017e po zakoupen\u00ed j\u00edzdenky. Zast\u00e1vka m\u00e1 n\u011bkolikero dve\u0159\u00ed a p\u0159esn\u011b k nim zastav\u00ed auto\/trolej\/bus. T\u00edm se zast\u00e1vka povy\u0161uje na takovou malou stanici. Nu, a pak je\u0161t\u011b jedna v\u011bc, MHD nestoj\u00ed v z\u00e1cp\u011b, m\u00e1 vlastn\u00ed pruhy. <\/span><\/p>\n

My jsme ale nakonec pro p\u0159epravu na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed zvolili Uber a s Georgem Washingtonem v postar\u0161\u00edm Chevroletu jsme tam byli za n\u011bjak\u00fdch 40 minut. Z centra je to asi 14 km. Autobus\u00e1k funguje tak, \u017ee si u ok\u00e9nka p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00e9 spole\u010dnosti koup\u00edte l\u00edstek. Ok\u00fdnek je hodn\u011b, ale ochotn\u011b v\u00e1s navedou. Sta\u010d\u00ed poslouchat vyvol\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed z jednotliv\u00fdch ok\u00e9nek. Pe\u010dliv\u011b organizovan\u00fd chaos, ve kter\u00e9m se nem\u016f\u017eete ztratit a je\u0161t\u011b si m\u016f\u017eete koupit n\u011bco na cestu, neb tu jsou i nezbytn\u00e9 st\u00e1nky s kde \u010d\u00edm. A kdo n\u00e1kup na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed nezvl\u00e1dne, m\u016f\u017ee nakoupit t\u0159eba hned na prvn\u00ed zast\u00e1vce b\u011bhem cesty. Nastoup\u00ed prodejce pra\u017een\u00fdch o\u0159ech\u016f a ty\u010dinek a ud\u011bl\u00e1 takovou malou p\u0159edv\u00e1d\u011b\u010dku. Kdy\u017e si koup\u00edte o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ky i ty\u010dky, dostanete l\u00e1kavou slevu. „Aha, tak proto pojedeme 60 km 2 hodiny,“ vtipkujeme. Ne, to nen\u00ed ten d\u016fvod. Pojedeme to tak dlouho, proto\u017ee jsme v hor\u00e1ch. Mineme pam\u00e1tn\u00edk St\u0159edu sv\u011bta, tedy m\u00edsto, kde byl zam\u011b\u0159en rovn\u00edk n\u011bkdy koncem 18. stolet\u00ed. Ha, u\u017e v\u00edte pro\u010d je Ekv\u00e1dor Ekv\u00e1d(t)orem? Nov\u00e1 m\u011b\u0159en\u00ed ale uk\u00e1zala, \u017ee rovn\u00edk vede o p\u00e1r set metr\u016f vedle. Nevad\u00ed, pam\u00e1tn\u00edk i muzeum u\u017e kv\u016fli tomu ne\u0161oupali. <\/span><\/p>\n

A u\u017e jedeme do kopce a hlavn\u011b pak z kopce. Z t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 3000 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f mus\u00edme klesnout do 1500. Mezi prudk\u00fdmi svahy a hluboce za\u0159\u00edznut\u00fdmi \u00fadol\u00edmi to nen\u00ed legrace, ale je to n\u00e1dhera. Nejd\u0159\u00edv sice p\u0159eva\u017euje t\u011b\u017ece odlesn\u011bn\u00e1 krajina, kde nam\u00edsto pralesa roste na t\u011bch \u0161\u00edlen\u011b prudk\u00fdch svaz\u00edch kuku\u0159ice a eroze mus\u00ed plesat nad\u0161en\u00edm, po n\u011bjak\u00e9 p\u016flhodin\u011b ale prales v\u00edt\u011bz\u00ed. Za 3 USD (\u0159\u00edkal jsem, \u017ee ceny autobus\u016f jsou sm\u011b\u0161n\u00e9?) si u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me n\u00e1dhernou pod\u00edvanou. Jako na barokn\u00edm divadle p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi ustupuj\u00ed zelen\u00e9 kulisy a my jedeme mezi n\u011b. Ml\u017en\u00fd les je v\u0161ude kolem. Zele\u0148 v z\u00e1voji mrak\u016f. Ob\u0159\u00ed pralesn\u00ed velik\u00e1ni \u0161plhaj\u00ed po svaz\u00edch a po nich \u0161plhaj\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed rostliny. Z r\u00e1dia v autobuse ov\u0161em nehraje H\u00e4ndel, jak by se na barokn\u00ed divadlo slu\u0161elo, ale UB40 a latinskoamerick\u00e9 hity. Podup\u00e1v\u00e1me si do rytmu. Mlad\u00fd prodava\u010d j\u00edzdenek je velmi dru\u017en\u00fd a p\u0159i ka\u017ed\u00e9m pr\u016fchodu uli\u010dkou autobusu s n\u00e1mi prohod\u00ed p\u00e1r slov. Proto\u017ee n\u00e1\u0161 c\u00edl, Mindo, je stranou hlavn\u00ed silnice, vystoup\u00edme na odbo\u010dce na hlavn\u00ed silnici. Stejn\u011b jako v pralese je ka\u017ed\u00e1 nika hned obsazena, i tady je chyb\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed spoj nahrazen tax\u00edky. Vyd\u011blat si p\u00e1r dolar\u016f za odvoz gringos je p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost k ob\u017eiv\u011b. <\/span><\/p>\n

Mindo je malebn\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko na stejnojmenn\u00e9 \u0159ece, sev\u0159en\u00e9 mezi strm\u00fdmi zelen\u00fdmi horami. P\u00e1r kilometr\u016f od n\u011bj se m\u016f\u017eete pono\u0159it do kr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho ml\u017en\u00e9ho lesa na celodenn\u00ed t\u00faru, birdwatching, mot\u00fdlowatching, \u010di adrenalinov\u00e9 blbnut\u00ed na lanech, canyoning a kdo v\u00ed, co je\u0161t\u011b. My se klecovou lanovkou p\u0159evezme na druhou stranu str\u017ee, skrz koruny pralesn\u00edch obr\u016f a p\u0159es divokou \u0159eku, a vyprav\u00edme se str\u00e1vit n\u011bkolik hodin v de\u0161tn\u00e9m lese na t\u00fa\u0159e kolem pe\u0159ej\u00ed a vodop\u00e1d\u016f. <\/span><\/p>\n

Je vlhko a dusno. Za chv\u00edli se rozpr\u0161\u00ed a bude l\u00edt jako\u2026 jako v de\u0161tn\u00e9m lese. Bahnit\u00e1 stezka \u010dvacht\u00e1. Provazy vody svazuj\u00ed naducan\u00e1 mra\u010dna s nas\u00e1klou zem\u00ed. A v\u0161ude kolem buj\u00ed rostlinstvo. Po kmenech \u0161plhaj\u00ed li\u00e1ny a dal\u0161\u00ed rostliny, v rozbr\u00e1zd\u011bn\u00e9 k\u016f\u0159e se chytaj\u00ed mechy, brom\u00e9lie, orchideje, houby\u2026 ano, sv\u011bt je velk\u00e1 \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e1 zelen\u00e1 houba. Dole bur\u00e1c\u00ed \u0159eka. Hn\u011bd\u00e1 voda se \u0159\u00edt\u00ed p\u0159es kameny, vrh\u00e1 se pe\u0159ejemi d\u00e1l do zelen\u00fdch tunel\u016f, ztr\u00e1c\u00ed se v ml\u017en\u00e9m oparu. Ze svah\u016f v zelen\u00e9m mechu, kapradin\u00e1ch a plavun\u00edch cr\u010d\u00ed z\u00e1v\u011bsy vody. M\u011bkk\u00e1 zem m\u00edsty ujede. Ob\u0159\u00ed strom ztrat\u00ed rovnov\u00e1hu a z\u0159\u00edt\u00ed se dol\u016f. S n\u00edm spadne cel\u00e1 ob\u0159\u00ed zahrada, proto\u017ee to nen\u00ed jen strom, ale cel\u00e9 spole\u010denstv\u00ed organism\u016f. Na cest\u011b jsme potkali p\u00e1r takov\u00fdch padl\u00fdch velik\u00e1n\u016f. Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b v\u00fdvrat je i spousta kamen\u00ed, utr\u017een\u00e1 cesta, ale taky nov\u00fd prostor, kter\u00fd bude brzo znovu os\u00eddlen a pohlcen v touze po sv\u011btle, \u017eivin\u00e1ch, opo\u0159e. \u017divot je toti\u017e o vztaz\u00edch a dynamice. <\/span><\/p>\n

Zm\u00e1\u010den\u00ed, s prsty svraskal\u00fdmi jak po dlouh\u00e9 koupeli, s objektivem zapatlan\u00fdm od neust\u00e1l\u00e9ho ot\u00edr\u00e1n\u00ed kapek, se a\u017e za soumraku vrac\u00edme posledn\u00edm autobusem zp\u011bt do Quita. M\u00edt v\u00edc \u010dasu, sk\u00fdtalo by Mindo mnoho p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost\u00ed k jeho str\u00e1ven\u00ed v objet\u00ed zelen\u00e9ho \u017eivlu.<\/span><\/p>\n

Kdy\u017e za\u010dneme klesat dol\u016f ke Quitu, naskytne se je\u0161t\u011b jedna pod\u00edvan\u00e1. Hust\u00e1 ml\u017en\u00e1 mra\u010dna se p\u0159evaluj\u00ed v \u00fadol\u00edch a jako b\u00edl\u00e9 \u0161\u00e1ly omot\u00e1vaj\u00ed vysok\u00e9 hory kolem. Ve tm\u011b, kter\u00e1 pad\u00e1 pravideln\u011b po \u0161est\u00e9 hodin\u011b, se Quito rozz\u00e1\u0159\u00ed tis\u00edci sv\u011btel. Metropole s t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 dv\u011bma miliony obyvatel je rozeset\u00e1 po kopc\u00edch. Te\u010f v noci to vypad\u00e1 jako sv\u011bteln\u00e1 s\u00ed\u0165 hozen\u00e1 nebesk\u00fdm ryb\u00e1\u0159em na zelen\u00e9 kopce vyso\u010diny. Z hotelov\u00e9ho okna p\u0159ed usnut\u00edm pozorujeme b\u00edl\u00e9 mraky vt\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00ed do m\u011bsta\u2026 <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

V\u010dera civilizace, dnes jedeme do zelena. Nejd\u0159\u00edv se ale mus\u00edme dostat na severn\u00ed n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed, co\u017e p\u0159i hustot\u011b dopravy v rann\u00ed \u0161pi\u010dce zabere p\u0159es p\u016fl hodiny. Termin\u00e1l je t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 na kraji m\u011bsta. Jezd\u00ed tam m\u00edstn\u00ed duobus. Trolejbus, co ob\u010das jede na naftu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[85],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2036"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2036"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2036\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2040,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2036\/revisions\/2040"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2036"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2036"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2036"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}