![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03061-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03070-scaled.jpg\")
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<\/a>Font\u00e1na na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Alameda<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/351484380_10220082636489847_7084321148373011657_n.jpg\")
<\/a>Lisabon – Tapas a oran\u017eov\u00e9 v\u00edno, foto: Michal.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \u010ctvrtek 15.6.2023. Lisabon – Santa Iria de Az\u00f3ia. 29,6 km.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme. Z Lisabonu m\u00e1m po\u0159\u00e1d sm\u00ed\u0161en\u00e9 pocity. Zat\u00edm nem\u016f\u017eu \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee by m\u011b m\u011bsto uchv\u00e1tilo. Jdeme kolem ob\u0159\u00edho h\u0159bitova (Cemit\u00e9rio Alto de S\u00e3o Jo\u00e3o). Funer\u00e1ln\u00ed architektura je fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed. Bohu\u017eel na h\u0159bitov n\u00e1s je\u0161t\u011b nepust\u00ed, do otv\u00edra\u010dky zb\u00fdv\u00e1 p\u016fl hodiny a str\u00e1\u017en\u00fd u vchodu je nekompromisn\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
V nedalek\u00e9 kav\u00e1rni\u010dce-bistru (obvykle se tyhle podniky jmenuj\u00ed pastelaria<\/em> nebo padaria<\/em>) si d\u00e1me kafe. 80 cent\u016f za velk\u00e9. Miluju zem\u011b s opravdovou k\u00e1vovou kulturou! Radek mezit\u00edm na parkletu p\u0159ed bistrem, kde jsme zakotvili, zji\u0161\u0165uje, \u017ee mu te\u010de camelbak. Batoh plave. Odbo\u010dka do Decathlonu je jist\u00e1 a nutn\u00e1. Do toho se mu v ta\u0161ce vysypaly kousky grilovan\u00e9ho sal\u00e1mu ze v\u010derej\u0161\u00edho posezen\u00ed u st\u00e1nku na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed. Den jak malovan\u00fd.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dole u p\u0159\u00edstavu prvn\u00ed zna\u010dka \u017elut\u00fdch a modr\u00fdch \u0161ipek. Caminho. Zde spojen\u00e9 i s poutn\u00ed cestou do Fatimy. Proch\u00e1z\u00edme star\u00fdmi doky a industri\u00e1ln\u00ed z\u00f3nou \u010dtvrti Beato z po\u010d\u00e1tku 20. stolet\u00ed. Rozklad, ale i noblesa industri\u00e1ln\u00edho stavitelstv\u00ed zlat\u00e9ho v\u011bku. Tehdy ne\u0161lo jen o funkci, ale i vzhled. Mnoh\u00e9 z tehdej\u0161\u00edch sklad\u016f a fabrik se m\u011bn\u00ed v \u00fato\u010di\u0161t\u011b um\u011blc\u016f. \u201cNe stroje, ale ruce tvo\u0159\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 v\u011bci\u201d, stoj\u00ed na jednom z velk\u00fdch plak\u00e1t\u016f na fas\u00e1d\u011b. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03089-scaled.jpg\")
Prvn\u00ed sm\u011brovka – Fatima<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03090-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>V\u00edt\u00e1me poutn\u00edky – ov\u0161em ty ze Setk\u00e1n\u00ed ml\u00e1de\u017ee s pape\u017eem Franti\u0161kem 2023<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03091-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Hned vedle kostela -Lisabon je prost\u011b queer<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03094-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Beato<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03097-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Beato<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03099-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Beato<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03102-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Vzh\u016fru do Decathlonu<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03104-scaled.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nEXPO 98. Nev\u00edm, tyhle v\u00fdstavy jsou jak olympi\u00e1da. Spousta humbuku, kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 architektura, ale jaksi kr\u00e1tkodob\u00e1. V roce 2023 u\u017e mnoho z toho pozl\u00e1tka roku 1998 vypad\u00e1 dost unaven\u011b. Dojmy rozpa\u010dit\u00e9. \u010ce\u0161i tehdy chyb\u011bli. Pr\u00fd odta\u017eit\u00e9 t\u00e9ma. Oce\u00e1ny. No jo, na\u0161e kotlinka. Kdysi jsme taky odm\u00edtli memorandum o desertifikaci, p\u00e1\u010d pr\u00fd nem\u00e1me pou\u0161t\u011b. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
To\u010dej tu ale dobr\u00fd pivo – Super bock. Zat\u00edmco M\u00ed\u0161a s Radkem vyb\u00edraj\u00ed hydranty, lov\u00ed mysterky a virtu\u00e1lky a kdov\u00ed, co je\u0161t\u011b, j\u00e1 si d\u00e1m je\u0161t\u011b Super bock. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/353814750_10220087823539520_3948479114308066034_n.jpg\")
<\/a>Na EXPO 98, foto: Michal.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n Nad hlavou lanovka, pohrobek Expa, nekone\u010dn\u00e1 piniov\u00e1 alej na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, \u00fast\u00ed Rio Tejo s dlouhatan\u00e1\u00e1\u00e1nsk\u00fdm mostem* nesouc\u00edm jm\u00e9no slavn\u00e9ho portugalsk\u00e9ho mo\u0159eplavce Vasco da Gamy – objevitele a m\u00edstokr\u00e1le Indie. Vedle u stole\u010dku\u2026 sloven\u0161tina. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
*po Krymsk\u00e9m most\u011b je tenhle most se sv\u00fdmi v\u00edce ne\u017e 12 kilometry nejdel\u0161\u00edm v Evrop\u011b. Otev\u0159en byl pr\u00e1v\u011b u p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitosti v\u00fdstavy EXPO 1998, co\u017e shodou okolnost\u00ed vy\u0161lo i na 500. v\u00fdro\u010d\u00ed objevitelsk\u00e9 n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00ed plavby Vasca da Gamy do Indie kolem africk\u00fdch b\u0159eh\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03109-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>N\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed Oriente<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03116-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>EXPO 98<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03123-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03136-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Ryb\u00e1\u0159i u mostu Vasco da Gamy<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n Most. Nekone\u010dn\u00fd, ob\u0159\u00ed, vln\u00edc\u00ed se. A v jeho st\u00ednu Bo\u017e\u00ed kostel. Bo\u017e\u00ed na druhou. Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes – n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 soudob\u00e1 architektura. V\u00e1\u017en\u011b pecka. Kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 pr\u00e1ce se sv\u011btlem, tajemstv\u00edm a spole\u010denstv\u00edm. V\u0161e prost\u00e9 katolick\u00e9ho k\u00fd\u010de, kter\u00fd tak \u010dasto zaplav\u00ed i architektonicky \u010dist\u00e9 nov\u00e9 kostely. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/IMG_20230615_132353-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/IMG_20230615_132408-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/IMG_20230615_132616-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\u00dasek Sacav\u00e9m – Santa Iria de Az\u00f3ia vede po poln\u00ed cest\u011b pod\u00e9l \u0159eky Trancao. A je to pekeln\u00e1 \u00fanavn\u00e1 vyp\u00edka\u010dka. 33\u00b0C ve st\u00ednu. Ov\u0161em ten nen\u00ed. V\u0161e kon\u010d\u00ed v\u00fdstupem p\u0159\u00edmo kolmo po vrstevnic\u00edch o n\u011bjak\u00fdch 120 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f. Slunce bez milosti pe\u010de. N\u011bkde jsem ztratil sv\u016fj duhov\u00fd n\u00e1ramek. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03146-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Prost\u011b zast\u00e1vka na p\u0159edm\u011bst\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03147-scaled.jpg\")
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<\/a>Tohle gothic\/noir zna\u010den\u00ed camina je trochu biz\u00e1r<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03166-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Nev\u00eddan\u00e1 kreativita na \u00fapln\u011b oby\u010dejn\u00fdch m\u00edstech<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n Ov\u0161em naho\u0159e p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed vykoupen\u00ed v podob\u011b bistra s chladn\u00fdm pivem. D\u00e1 se tu i naj\u00edst. A je tu skv\u011bl\u00e1 spole\u010dnost. Na parkovi\u0161ti prdl\u00e1 nastartovan\u00e1 po\u0161tovn\u00ed dod\u00e1vka, zat\u00edmco po\u0161\u0165\u00e1ci do sebe klop\u00ed piva. Nad\u0161en\u00ed, \u017ee vid\u00ed n\u011bjak\u00e9 poutn\u00edky, objedn\u00e1vaj\u00ed rundu. A druhou. „A v\u0161em \u0159ekn\u011bte, \u017ee Portugalci jsou skv\u011bl\u00ed. A ve Fatim\u011b se za n\u00e1s pomodlete a zapalte sv\u00ed\u010dku.“<\/p>\n\n\n\n
„J\u00e1 jsem \u0161el a\u017e do Santiaga,“ p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 se jeden z nich a ukazuje fotku s kilometrovn\u00edkem. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
„Jo, leda tak autem, a p\u011bkne sis zastavil a vyfotil se,“ dob\u00edraj\u00ed si ho kolegov\u00e9. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
„Nene, v\u00e1\u017en\u011b, koukejte\u2026“ a ukazuje celou galerii dokumenta\u010dn\u00edch fotek v mobilu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/FB_IMG_1686861093107.jpg\")
<\/a>S po\u0161\u0165\u00e1ky, foto: Michal.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n Radek s Michalem u\u017e maj\u00ed napl\u00e1novan\u00e9 n\u011bjak\u00e9 CITO* (rozum\u011bj ke\u0161ka\u0159sk\u00fd event) v nedalek\u00e9m parku, tak se mus\u00edme rozlou\u010dit. Na CITO doraz\u00ed p\u00e1r lid\u00ed, v\u010detn\u011b nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edho portugalsk\u00e9ho ka\u010dera. Pro m\u011b je to ud\u00e1lost trochu z jin\u00e9ho vesm\u00edru, poslouch\u00e1m zaj\u00edmavosti. Park je v m\u00edst\u011b b\u00fdval\u00e9 skl\u00e1dky, takov\u00e1 \u0159ekn\u011bme forma rekultivace, tak\u017ee ud\u00e1lost spojen\u00e1 se sb\u00edr\u00e1n\u00edm odpadk\u016f je jaksi dvojn\u00e1sob zaj\u00edmav\u00e1. Po akci opou\u0161t\u00edme park a kousek pod n\u00edm najdeme p\u0159\u00edhodn\u00e9 m\u00edsto na dne\u0161n\u00ed nocleh. Ostatn\u011b tak to vlastn\u011b Radek napl\u00e1noval.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
*CITO event je setk\u00e1n\u00ed, na kter\u00e9m se geocache\u0159i sna\u017e\u00ed vy\u010distit vymezen\u00e9 \u00fazem\u00ed od odpadk\u016f a nepo\u0159\u00e1dku, kter\u00fd v p\u0159\u00edrod\u011b zanechali lhostejn\u00ed lid\u00e9. My\u0161lenka Cache In Trash Out (CITO) se objevila na podzim roku 2000 jako zp\u016fsob, jak\u00fdm mohou geocache\u0159i pomoci m\u00edstn\u00edm park\u016fm a p\u0159\u00edrod\u011b. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03151-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03153-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Infocedule pod mostem<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03158-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03162-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03164-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03159-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03167-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nP\u00e1tek 16.6.2023, Santa Iria de Az\u00f3ia – Vila Franca de Xira. 28,24 km.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Vst\u00e1v\u00e1me brzo. Ne snad, \u017ee bychom s n\u011bk\u00fdm sout\u011b\u017eili. Ostatn\u011b stejn\u011b jsme toho \u010dasu jedin\u00ed poutn\u00edci \u0161iroko daleko. Chceme se ale vyhnout slune\u010dn\u00ed v\u00fdhni a stejn\u011b u\u017e to tu za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 hu\u010det. Pod n\u00e1mi ru\u0161n\u00e1 silnice – spojka dvou rychlostn\u00edch silnic – nad n\u00e1mi jedno letadlo za druh\u00fdm*. Tak\u017ee vlastn\u011b na cest\u011b nejsme zdaleka sami. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
*lisabonsk\u00e9 leti\u0161t\u011b je v podstat\u011b ve m\u011bst\u011b, tak\u017ee hluk letadel je v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00fd a to dokonce a\u017e dlouho do noci a tak\u00e9 brzo r\u00e1no. V\u00fdhodou je, \u017ee na leti\u0161ti jste z m\u011bsta za chv\u00edli – je to stanice metra. Zd\u00e1 se, \u017ee \u00favodn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st trasy camina se dost shoduje s letov\u00fdm koridorem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sestupujeme z kopce po p\u011b\u0161in\u011b. V \u00fadol\u00ed se napoj\u00edme zp\u011bt na trasu camina, ze kter\u00e9 jsme v\u010dera kv\u016fli noclehu a ka\u010dersk\u00e9mu eventu odbo\u010dili. Na druh\u00e9 stran\u011b \u00fadol\u00ed je zasl\u00edben\u00e1 krajina sob\u011bslavsk\u00e9ho starosty Bl\u00e1hy. Logistick\u00e9 haly sv\u00edraj\u00ed p\u00e1r dom\u016f, nad t\u00edm je\u0161t\u011b velk\u00fd sol\u00e1rn\u00ed park a na h\u0159ebenu v\u011btrn\u00e9 elektr\u00e1rny. D\u00e1lnice. Zdalipak se tu taky \u0161melilo s pozemky jako v Sob\u011bslavi. P\u0159i pohledu na krajinu logistiky moje my\u0161lenky let\u00ed zp\u011bt dom\u016f. Ten pocit zmaru a vlastn\u011b odporu v\u016f\u010di malosti, hlouposti a ske\u0165\u00e1ctv\u00ed malom\u011bsta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dne\u0161n\u00ed cesta bude st\u0159\u00edhat ostr\u00fdm st\u0159ihem kr\u00e1su a b\u00eddu. Sestupujeme z b\u00fdval\u00e9 skl\u00e1dky, kter\u00e1 se prom\u011bnila v m\u00edsto odpo\u010dinku a volno\u010dasov\u00fdch aktivit. Dokonce je tu park v\u011bnovan\u00fd alternativn\u00edm zdroj\u016fm. Nehodnot\u00edm, nakolik je to opravdov\u00e9 p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010den\u00ed realiz\u00e1tor\u016f a nakolik \u00falitba, v\u00fdkupn\u00e9 nebo n\u011bjak vyu\u017eit\u00e9 dota\u010dn\u00ed pen\u00edze. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
V \u00fadol\u00ed n\u00e1s od sklad\u016f trochu odst\u00edn\u00ed vegetace, ale jsou tam. Jdeme mezi sklady a d\u00e1lnic\u00ed. Zva\u017eujeme alternativn\u00ed cestu tunelem pod d\u00e1lnic\u00ed. Trasa camina vede je\u0161t\u011b kousek d\u00e1l. V s\u00e1zce je, kdy budeme m\u00edt kafe. Nakonec rozhodneme, po teologick\u00e9 disputaci, \u017ee p\u016fjdeme po trase camina a sv\u011b\u0159\u00edme se Proz\u0159etelnosti. Radek konstatuje, \u017ee j\u00e1 \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m Proz\u0159etelnost a realita m\u00e1 pak podobu t\u0159i po\u0161\u0165\u00e1k\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1m v\u010dera koupili pivo. Jojo, jako u Abrahama. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03180-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03181-scaled.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nPodejdeme d\u00e1lnici a po krajnici silnice dojdeme do m\u011bsta. Forte da Casa. Shluk v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch bytov\u00fdch dom\u016f. Nic, co by l\u00e1kalo. Kav\u00e1rny u cesty jsou je\u0161t\u011b zav\u0159en\u00e9. Najdeme ale jednu vpravd\u011b luxusn\u00ed stranou od silnice naho\u0159e v kopci. Tenhle zp\u016fsob kombinace pek\u00e1rny, cukr\u00e1rny a kav\u00e1rny je skv\u011bl\u00fd. Po r\u00e1nu je tu \u0161rumec. M\u00edchaj\u00ed se tu d\u011bln\u00edci, policajti, m\u00e1my s d\u011btmi i d\u016fchodci. D\u00e1t si r\u00e1no kafe a n\u011bco k tomu n\u011bkde v kav\u00e1rn\u011b je tu norm\u00e1ln\u00ed a b\u011b\u017en\u00e9. Nen\u00ed to ani hipste\u0159ina, ani \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 zaplivan\u00e1 u\u0161mudlan\u00e1 \u0161pelu\u0148ka. Jednak m\u00e1te soci\u00e1ln\u00ed kontakt, jednak d\u00e1te vyd\u011blat, a tak podnik vlastn\u011b udr\u017eujete i ke sv\u00e9 spokojenosti v chodu. Ceny jsou legra\u010dn\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Z m\u011bsta mus\u00edme p\u0159es budouc\u00ed developersk\u00fd projekt, kolem p\u00e1chnouc\u00ed stoky k \u0159ece. Tedy Tejo je \u0159eka, na kterou nejsme zvykl\u00ed. Jednak se tu je\u0161t\u011b projevuje p\u0159\u00edliv a odliv, jednak sv\u00fdmi rozm\u011bry dosahuje, a mo\u017en\u00e1 v t\u011bchto m\u00edstech i p\u0159ed\u010d\u00ed, t\u0159eba\u00a0 Dunaj ve V\u00eddni. Je ob\u0159\u00ed. B\u0159ehy jsou te\u010f obna\u017een\u00e9 a bahnit\u00e9. Vlhk\u00e9 bahno je c\u00edtit a bahnit\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1ra ukazuje, kde v\u0161ude bude za p\u0159\u00edlivu voda. N\u00edzk\u00e9 k\u0159oviny s p\u0159evahou lebedy \u0161ruchovit\u00e9 (Halimione portulacoides<\/em>) lemuj\u00ed \u0161irok\u00fdm p\u00e1sem koryto \u0159eky. Cesta vede po vyv\u00fd\u0161en\u00e9m n\u00e1spu. Za n\u00edm jsou takov\u00e1 t\u0159ebo\u0148sk\u00e1 Mokr\u00e1 luka. Louky a pole protkan\u00e9 syst\u00e9mem kan\u00e1l\u016f. N\u00e1sep brzy p\u0159ejde v d\u0159ev\u011bnou l\u00e1vku. Je to kr\u00e1sa, by\u0165 po lev\u00e9 ruce za mokr\u00fdmi loukami vede tra\u0165, d\u00e1lnice a mozaika sklad\u016f, m\u011bste\u010dek a p\u0159ekladi\u0161\u0165. Kousek d\u00e1l se u\u017e vno\u0159\u00edme do zelen\u00e9ho lesa tvo\u0159en\u00e9ho r\u00e1kosinami. R\u00e1kos\u00ed nahrad\u00ed ob\u0159\u00ed Arundo donax<\/em> (trs\u0165) se sko\u010dcem, diviznami, dokv\u00e9taj\u00edc\u00edmi akanty. Oz\u00fdvaj\u00ed se pt\u00e1ci, drobn\u00ed p\u011bvci r\u00e1kosin, ale pr\u016fhledy do bahnit\u00e9 zelen\u00e9 hou\u0161tiny vid\u00edm jen kachny a sl\u00edpky rychle mizej\u00edc\u00ed ve vegetaci.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03187-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Lisabon st\u00e1le v dohledu<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03191-scaled.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nP\u0159ed Alvercou n\u00e1s cesta odvede od \u0159eky. Obch\u00e1z\u00edme leteckou z\u00e1kladnu portugalsk\u00e9ho letectva. Kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 muraly na zdech z\u00e1kladny (muraly jsou esenc\u00ed Portugalska) upom\u00ednaj\u00ed na ned\u00e1vn\u00e9 stolet\u00e9 v\u00fdro\u010d\u00ed z\u00e1kladny. V Alverce p\u0159ejdeme na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed tra\u0165. A d\u00e1me se v n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00edm bistru (\u00f3, jak mi tohle v \u010cech\u00e1ch chyb\u00ed) na\u0161e obl\u00edben\u00e9 pivo. Zvl\u00e1dnou tu i kafe a n\u011bjak\u00fd ten sendvi\u010d a sladkosti. Vlastn\u011b sendvi\u010d v\u00e1m tu p\u0159iprav\u00ed snad v\u0161ude. I ta nejmen\u0161\u00ed kav\u00e1rna na mal\u00e9 vsi m\u00e1 kontaktn\u00ed gril, kde v\u00e1m prod\u00e1vanou housku nebo chleba prom\u011bn\u00ed v chutn\u00fd toast, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b v\u00e1m p\u0159iprav\u00ed omeletu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03202-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Alverca, n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed a leteck\u00e1 z\u00e1kladna<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03204-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/354243532_10220091861840475_3383732364657462997_n.jpg\")
<\/a>Alverca – n\u00e1dra\u017en\u00ed bistro, foto: Michal.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n Z m\u011bste\u010dka Alverca n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 nejodporn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u00fasek. Nejd\u0159\u00edv vypad\u00e1 nevinn\u011b, ale brzy n\u00e1s vrhne mezi sklady a podivnou sm\u011bs nov\u00e9 krajiny logistick\u00fdch hal, kde pro poutn\u00edka nen\u00ed m\u00edsto. To, \u017ee tudy vede d\u016fsledn\u011b zna\u010den\u00e1 trasa tzv. stezek v\u00edry (Caminhos da F\u00e9<\/em>) – tedy Caminho Portugu\u00eas central a Caminho de Fatima – je tak bizarn\u00ed. Spolu s Franti\u0161kovou encyklikou Laudato si<\/em> m\u016f\u017eete cestou p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161let o vztahu \u010dlov\u011bka a krajiny, o nov\u00e9 krajin\u011b a o tom, jak\u00e9 m\u00edsto poskytuje \u010dlov\u011bku. Je to nezbytn\u00e9, ale nem\u016f\u017eu \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee by mi to d\u011blalo radost. P\u0159ipoj\u00edme se na ru\u0161nou silnici, kde budeme inhalovat v\u00fdfukov\u00e9 plyny a\u017e do Alhandry. Tenhle \u00fasek je opravdu odpudiv\u00fd a asi i trochu nebezpe\u010dn\u00fd, proto\u017ee silnice je opravdu ru\u0161n\u00e1.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ale pak p\u0159ijde ostr\u00fd st\u0159ih. Alhandra. M\u011bsto u ob\u0159\u00ed cement\u00e1rny. Pasovka, jakou si pamatuju z B\u00edliny, vede na vysok\u00fdch pil\u00ed\u0159\u00edch kamsi nad n\u00e1mi, nad d\u00e1lnici o n\u011bco v\u00fd\u0161. V\u00fdroba se stoletou tradici. V\u011b\u017ee tov\u00e1rny, bizarn\u00ed a sv\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem p\u0159ita\u017eliv\u00fd labyrint na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed propojuj\u00edc\u00ed silni\u010dn\u00ed, \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed i lodn\u00ed p\u0159epravu. V jeho st\u00ednu jsou d\u011blnick\u00e9 domky i opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 vily pod ob\u0159\u00edmi platany. Snad s\u00eddla mistr\u016f, vedouc\u00edch, n\u011bkdej\u0161\u00edch majitel\u016f. N\u00e1sleduje n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed zapu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u011b malebn\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem do \u00fatrob fabriky. A za n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00edm zat\u00edm nejhez\u010d\u00ed m\u011bste\u010dko na na\u0161\u00ed cest\u011b. Na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed\u010dku je ru\u0161no, v pastelarii si d\u00e1me g\u00e1bl\u00edk a pivo. Tousty z hutn\u00e9ho chleba. Jednotliv\u00e9 ingredience n\u00e1m usm\u011bvav\u00e1 obsluha nos\u00ed uk\u00e1zat, aby domluva byla jasn\u00e1. Vst\u0159\u00edcnost, pohoda. Navzdory tomu, \u017ee camino tu nen\u00ed st\u0159edobodem \u017eivota, se k cizinc\u016fm a poutn\u00edk\u016fm chovaj\u00ed v\u0159ele a nadm\u00edru vst\u0159\u00edcn\u011b. Radost. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Z Alhandry vede trasa camina po nov\u00e9 stezce mezi mohutn\u00fdm Rio Tejo a \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00edm koridorem. P\u011bkn\u00e1 kombinace p\u011b\u0161\u00ed \/ b\u011b\u017eeck\u00e9 \/ brusla\u0159sk\u00e9 \/cyklo stezky vybaven\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na \u0159eku, odpo\u010d\u00edvkami a p\u00edtky. Odpo\u010d\u00edvky nav\u00edc, jak jinak, zdob\u00ed muraly s motivy stezky a aktivit na n\u00ed. Stezka, kter\u00e1 se necykl\u00ed, ale spojuje a vede odn\u011bkud n\u011bkam. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC03209-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Alhandra<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/IMG_20230616_121436-scaled.jpg\")
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<\/a>Alhandra<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/IMG_20230616_134617-scaled.jpg\")
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<\/a>Alhandra<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n P\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme do Vila Franca de Xira. P\u016fvabn\u00e9 m\u011bsto. M\u00e1m skv\u011bl\u00fd puch\u00fd\u0159 na plosce prav\u00e9 nohy. Bol\u00ed n\u00e1s nohy a jsme pe\u010den\u00ed vedrem. Dolezeme tak do kempu nad m\u011bstem a d\u00e1lnic\u00ed. Um\u00fdt, vyprat, odpo\u010d\u00edvat. V kempu maj\u00ed dobr\u00e9 v\u00edno a jsou posedl\u00ed fakturami. Ve\u010der za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b foukat. Mo\u017en\u00e1 budu dnes pot\u0159ebovat i spac\u00e1k. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Pozn\u00e1mka: op\u011bt z nezn\u00e1m\u00e9ho d\u016fvodu nefunguje platebn\u00ed karta. Kemp jde zaplatit v pohod\u011b, ale automat na pochutiny a bagety kartu zatvrzele odm\u00edt\u00e1. \u010cist\u011b prakticky, je dobr\u00e9 na to myslet a zkr\u00e1tka m\u00edt hotovost.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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