{"id":4877,"date":"2026-11-13T10:22:23","date_gmt":"2026-11-13T09:22:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=4877"},"modified":"2026-11-13T11:35:44","modified_gmt":"2026-11-13T10:35:44","slug":"rota-vicentina-fishermans-trail-trilho-dos-pescadores","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2026\/11\/13\/rota-vicentina-fishermans-trail-trilho-dos-pescadores\/","title":{"rendered":"Rota Vicentina | Fisherman’s trail | Trilho dos Pescadores"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"<\/a>
Ji\u017en\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed mezi m\u011bsty Sagres a Lagos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

DEN 1 | PORTO COVO<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Mezi Arakisem a Caladanem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u00fdhledy z\u00e1vratn\u011b dechberouc\u00ed, vlny bu\u0161\u00ed a bu\u0161\u00ed. Slunko pe\u010de a schovat se nen\u00ed kam. P\u00edsek, p\u00edsek, p\u00edsek…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nev\u011b\u0159te pr\u016fvodc\u016fm. Nen\u00ed to \u00fapln\u011b easy, bo ten p\u00edsek v\u00e1m fakt prov\u011b\u0159\u00ed nohy. Ale ob\u010derstvovny, kter\u00e9 u\u017e m\u011bly b\u00fdt zav\u0159en\u00e9, je\u0161t\u011b jedou a zakl\u00ednadlo sagr\u0161<\/em> zn\u00e1me u\u017e z Camina. P\u00edtka ve vs\u00edch tak\u00e9 jsou a funguj\u00ed. Lid\u00ed je dost, tak\u017ee vyrazte, dokud to nebude proces\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rota Vicentina | Fisherman’s trail | Trilho dos Pescadores<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

DEN 2 | ZAMBUJEIRA DO MAR<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

P\u00edsek, p\u00edsek, p\u00edsek… zelen\u00fd tunely…p\u00edsek, hodn\u011b p\u00edsku, hlubok\u00fd P\u00cdSEK…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zn\u00e1te to pov\u00edd\u00e1n\u00ed o tom, jak maj\u00ed Inuit\u00e9 stra\u0161n\u011b moc v\u00fdraz\u016f pro sn\u00edh, \u017ee jo? Tak mi to za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me m\u00edt pro p\u00edsek. Jo, na za\u010d\u00e1tku to byl jen \u201eten za*nej p\u00edsek<\/em>\u201c, ale te\u010f u\u017e rozli\u0161ujeme barvu, hrubost, hloubku… je sn\u011bhov\u011b b\u00edl\u00fd, ho\u0159\u010dicov\u011b oran\u017eov\u00fd, oby\u010dejn\u011b p\u00edskov\u011b \u017elut\u00fd.. hrub\u0161\u00ed s kam\u00ednky, jemn\u00fd, co vleze v\u0161ude a bo\u0159\u00ed se do n\u011bj nohy, zvlhl\u00fd p\u00edsek u pot\u016f\u010dk\u016f, kter\u00e9 padaj\u00ed z \u00fates\u016f do oce\u00e1nu, p\u00edsek s jehli\u010d\u00edm, p\u00edsek s ak\u00e1ciov\u00fdm list\u00edm, po tom se d\u00e1 j\u00edt asi nejl\u00edp, hned po p\u00edsku pol\u0148a\u010dek a cest k pl\u00e1\u017e\u00edm. Ale kdy\u017e lezete do kopce v tom hlubok\u00e9m, kde ka\u017ed\u00fd krok je za krok\u016f pades\u00e1t, v\u011bt\u0161inou skouzneme k tomu prvn\u00edmu tedy \u201etomu za*n\u00fdmu p\u00edsku<\/em>\u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A jo, pak jsou tu ty \u00fatesy a oce\u00e1n. A to jeden zapomene i na ten p\u00edsek. A ty v\u00fdhledy z postele<\/em>, ty v\u00e1m \u017e\u00e1dnej Hilton nenab\u00eddne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

DEN 3 | ODECEIXE<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Magick\u00e1 r\u00e1na, kdy slunce vyh\u00e1n\u00ed mlhu na oce\u00e1n.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dnes p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b m\u00e9n\u011b p\u00edsku. V\u00edce zelen\u00fdch tunel\u016f, potok\u016f, poln\u00edch cest a borov\u00fdch les\u016f. Trochu v\u00edc nahoru a dolu, jeden lehce exponovan\u00fd \u00fasek. Ale zat\u00edm nic z avizovan\u00fdch probl\u00e9m\u016f pro n\u00e1s, co m\u00e1me z\u00e1vrat\u011b i na \u017eeb\u0159\u00edku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zase nadhern\u00fd v\u00fdhledy, sem tam n\u011bco aj nesm\u011ble kvete a nad t\u00edm v\u0161\u00edm se vzn\u00e1\u0161\u00ed v\u016fn\u011b ovocn\u00e9ho komprim\u00e1tu. Aspo\u0148 tak pravil Carlito. Od p\u016fvodn\u00edch verz\u00ed s libe\u010dkem a magi je to trochu posun no. Asi proto n\u00e1m k ve\u010de\u0159i dali jako pozornost bonb\u00f3ny. K chobotnici se to hod\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No a abych nezapomn\u011bl, na z\u00e1v\u011br dne jeden Oklika. Velk\u00fd Oklika hodn\u00fd Ibsena. Mo\u017en\u00e1 se d\u00e1 p\u0159ebrodit, ale my s klasick\u00fdm vzd\u011bl\u00e1n\u00edm (diplomy u\u017e si chyst\u00e1m u F\u00edly) velk\u00e9 okliky prost\u011b odch\u00e1z\u00edme, bo takov\u00fd je \u017eivot. Obejdi!  Poutn\u00ed imperativ Odeceixe. Prost\u011b ta \u0159eka holt te\u010de tak blb\u011b, \u017ee jo, a ten most je kuva a\u017e tak daleko ve vnitrozem\u00ed, \u017ee jo… Obejdi! Kilometry sem, kilometry tam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Osl\u00edk pozdravuje a my jdeme do hajan, bo u\u017e zhasli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po ve\u010derce n\u00e1sleduj\u00ed chytr\u00e9 rady pro cestu:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1) P\u00edskov\u00e9 n\u00e1vleky funguj\u00ed a vyplat\u00ed se, ale d\u00e1 se j\u00edt i bez nich.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2) Co bych naopak rozhodn\u011b doma nenech\u00e1val jsou h\u016flky. Jednak po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fd poutn\u00edk chod\u00ed u\u017e od nepam\u011bti s hol\u00ed, jednak je to do t\u00fd pou\u0161t\u011b praktick\u00e1 opora.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Do fotek p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1m i z\u00e1bavn\u00fd moment ze seri\u00e1lu \u201eA vstanete potom?\u201c To je pro n\u00e1s v Klubu 40\/50<\/em> u\u017e takov\u00e1 podstatn\u00e1 ot\u00e1zka. Le\u010d \u0161karohl\u00edd\u016fm vzkazuji, \u017ee teda jo, i s t\u00edm batohem!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

DEN 4 | ALJEZUR<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Dost\u00e1v\u00e1me se do \u00faseku, kde nad\u0161en\u00ed poutn\u00ed\u010dk\u016f v\u00e1zne. Davy u\u017e se nekonaj\u00ed. Sice jsme naru\u0161ili ten ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed itiner\u00e1\u0159, pokud n\u011bco takov\u00e9ho existuje, tak\u017ee by se to dalo sv\u00e9st na rann\u00ed vst\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed a del\u0161\u00ed etapy, ale nen\u00ed tomu tak. Jak cesta opust\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, z\u00e1jem opad\u00e1. Je to samoz\u0159ejm\u011b trochu kli\u0161\u00e9, ale plat\u00ed Carlitovo: \u201eCamino chod\u00ed babky, co se modl\u00ed, Fisherman’s trail self\u00ed\u010dk\u00e1\u0159i s ledvinkou, co cht\u011bj\u00ed m\u00edt l\u00edbivou fotku s oce\u00e1nem.<\/em>\u201c A j\u00e1 dod\u00e1v\u00e1m, \u017ee m\u00e1 pravdu, by\u0165 teda tady chod\u00ed mnoho \u017een, single, v p\u00e1rech i skupin\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nicm\u00e9n\u011b nest\u011b\u017eujem si. Naopak. Dnes je to pest\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed a v\u00edc Camino. M\u011bn\u00ed se krajina, v\u0161echna m\u00edsta nejsou zrovna na tituln\u00ed str\u00e1nky \u010dasopis\u016f, ale \u201evo tom to je,<\/em>\u201c to \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m j\u00e1.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jdeme mezi bat\u00e1tov\u00fdmi poli a borov\u00fdmi lesy. Mimochodem, zdej\u0161\u00ed bat\u00e1ty se serv\u00edruj\u00ed jak k chobotnici, tak jsou p\u0159\u00edsadou do sv\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edho kol\u00e1\u010de, za kter\u00fd jsme dnes dali majlant. No a jako za m\u011b dobr\u00fd, f\u00edky, rozinky\u2026 ale vcelku hipan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pak taky kus cesty pod\u00e9l asfaltky, ale po t\u0159ech dnech na p\u00edskovi\u0161ti, je ch\u016fze po asfaltu osv\u011b\u017euj\u00edc\u00ed, i kdy\u017e teda kolem mega-divn\u00e9ho mega-rezortu pln\u00e9ho apartm\u00e1n\u016f a steriln\u00edho designov\u00e9ho bydlen\u00ed, zat\u00edmco domky v malebn\u00e9m st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00e9m m\u011bste\u010dku zej\u00ed pr\u00e1zdnotou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ale nemylte se, pob\u0159e\u017en\u00ed Hilton u\u017e na n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1\u2026 Carlito furt \u0159\u00edk\u00e1: \u201eA\u017e dojdeme do ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/em>\u201c To je takov\u00e1 slovn\u00ed h\u0159\u00ed\u010dka, kter\u00e1 znamen\u00e1 asi toto: A\u017e dojdeme n\u011bkam, kde u\u017e fakt nebudeme moct a bude tma a postav\u00edme stan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

DEN 5 | ARRIFANA<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Noc pobl\u00ed\u017e Amon Sul. P\u0159\u00edmo na m\u00edst\u011b jsme si sp\u00e1t netroufli. Z m\u00edsta sam\u00e9ho, co\u017e je b\u00fdval\u00e1 maursk\u00e1 pevnost, je v\u00fdborn\u00fd v\u00fdhled a\u017e ke svat\u00e9mu Vincentovi na ji\u017en\u00edm c\u00edpu zem\u011b a take na sever. Nen\u00ed tedy divu, \u017ee str\u00e1\u017en\u00ed v\u011b\u017e st\u00e1la pr\u00e1v\u011b tady.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cesta dnes trochu pob\u0159e\u017e\u00edm a v\u00edc vnitrozem\u00edm. Lesy vo\u0148av\u00e9 borov\u00e9, sem tam kork\u00e1\u010d, a to j\u00e1 zase z\u00e1vid\u00edm, bo z t\u00fd k\u016fry se d\u011blaj\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00fd betl\u00e9mov\u00fd sk\u00e1ly. Lesy fujkove blahovi\u010dn\u00edkov\u00e9, o t\u011bch jsem psal u\u017e kdysi na Caminu z Lisabonu. Vype\u010den\u00e1 pole, sem tam zem\u011bd\u011blsk\u00e1 usedlost. Ono os\u00eddlen\u00ed je tu takov\u00e9 dost roztrou\u0161en\u00e9. Jen jedna s\u00e1gr\u0161\/superbock pauza, kde se slezou v\u0161ichni poutn\u00ed\u010dci od severu a od jihu a chv\u00edli relaxuj\u00ed. Dnes v\u00edc lid\u00ed a s v\u00edc opravdov\u00fdma batohama, tak\u017ee v ranku hodnocen\u00ed dobr\u00fd<\/em>. Na cest\u011b se ale v\u00edcem\u00e9n\u011b st\u0159\u00eddav\u011b st\u00edh\u00e1me jen s jedn\u00edm poutn\u00ed\u010dkem a toho opust\u00edme, kdy\u017e d\u00e1me vale jeho b\u011b\u017eeck\u00e9mu tempu a rozhodneme se j\u00edt posledn\u00ed kilometry po pl\u00e1\u017ei. Jo pl\u00e1\u017eovej p\u00edsek je toti\u017e ten nejlep\u0161\u00ed. Po tom se chod\u00ed dob\u0159e a no\u017ei\u010dky j\u00e1saj\u00ed. Akor\u00e1t bacha na k\u00e1mo\u0161ky m\u011bch\u00fd\u0159ovky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vyhla\u0161ujeme sanita\u010dn\u00ed den a jdeme odrb\u00e1vat krusti\u010dku. Tak pa a z\u00edtra zase v\u0161ichni…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

DEN 6 | CARRAPATEIRA<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Dnes zase trochu Tolkiena.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Za\u010dali jsme neo\u010dek\u00e1van\u00fdm d\u00fdch\u00e1nkem v d\u00e1nsko- kanadsko- nizozemsk\u00e9 spole\u010dnosti. Fakt trochu jak ve Dnu Pytle. Jen p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm, kdo byl ten br\u00fdlat\u00fd funny sta\u0159\u00edk na druh\u00e9 stran\u011b stolu, kter\u00fd si balil sendvi\u010d na cestu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nakonec jsme na tu partu loudav\u00fdch trpasl\u00edk\u016f ne\u010dekali a vyrazili sami.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pl\u00e1\u017e se surfa\u0159i a pak jak horsk\u00e1 dr\u00e1ha nahoru a dolu, a nahoru a dolu, a nahoru pob\u0159e\u017e\u00edm\u2026 a tu jsme potkali \u0160maka. Le\u017eel si tam l\u00edn\u011b, tlamu v chladiv\u00fdch vln\u00e1ch, kter\u00e9 dnes byly klidn\u00e9 a t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 konej\u0161iv\u00e9, je-li jeden drak. Navzdory v\u011btru. Ten fu\u010del a\u017e na v\u011btrovkovou teplotu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No a za sp\u00edc\u00edm \u0160makem u\u017e to bylo trochu vnitrozem\u00ed, trochu les, Vila do Bispo s Aldi a kafem a sympa barmanem v bistru a pak to p\u0159i\u0161lo. The Desolation of Smaug, tedy \u0160makova pou\u0161\u0165. \u00dapln\u011b hnusn\u00e1, energii vys\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed pustina. P\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm, zda jsem kdy \u0161el hnusn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch deset kilometr\u016f. Bizarn\u00ed vysu\u0161en\u00fd konec sv\u011bta, kde by z fleku mohli to\u010dit dystopick\u00e1 dramata. A na konci\u2026 na konci prost\u011b konec. Konec sv\u011bta! Maj\u00e1k S\u00e3o Vicente a v\u00edc nic. Konec sv\u011bta! Cesta tam<\/em> kon\u010d\u00ed, zb\u00fdv\u00e1 Cesta zp\u00e1tky<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nep\u016fjdeme u\u017e p\u0159es \u0160makovu pou\u0161\u0165, ale oklikou po pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ale to zase a\u017e z\u00edtra. Dobrou noc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

DEN 7 | SALEMA<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jako\u017ee dneska kus fujkovou vypra\u017eeninou, kde u\u017e i ty quintas museli opustit, pak kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, aj borov\u00fd lesy, ale… ale furt nahoru a dolu a nahoru a dolu a\u017e jsme to zapomn\u011bli po\u010d\u00edtat. Leze se ke ka\u017ed\u00fd hip\u00eds\u00e1ck\u00fd pl\u00e1\u017ei a pak zase \u0161utrama nahoru ke ka\u017ed\u00fd z\u0159\u00edcenin\u011b a pak zase dol\u016f k pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed a pak… Obava ze zhor\u0161en\u00ed po\u010das\u00ed a fakt neskute\u010dn\u00fd ceny ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed n\u00e1s dohnaly k tomu, \u017ee jsme zase trochu spojovali etapy a tentokr\u00e1t Ton\u00ed\u010dek fakt p\u0159ecenil s\u00edly a podcenil n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd ter\u00e9n. Jako jo, m\u011bl jsem dnes po tejdnu na nohou nejednu krizi a cht\u011bl jsem s t\u00edm seknout. Von Hospodin v\u011bd\u011bl, pro\u010d sedmej den odpo\u010d\u00edval a netahal se deset hodin n\u011bkde po jihu Portugalska.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tak\u017ee jestli m\u016f\u017eu doporu\u010dit, fakt si na ten jih dejte kl\u00eddek a klidn\u011b t\u0159i dny a nesna\u017ete se to uhnat za dva, resp. jeden a p\u016fl.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jdeme na v\u00edno, dneska si ho zaslou\u017e\u00edme. Zase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

DEN 8 | LAGOS<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Posledn\u00edch p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f je sp\u00ed\u0161 u\u017e jen vych\u00e1zka po pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed. V z\u00e1dech m\u00e1me frontu, co p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed zm\u011bnu po\u010das\u00ed, v\u00edtr a d\u00e9\u0161\u0165. Na po\u010das\u00ed jsme teda m\u011bli neskute\u010dn\u00fd \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed. Intenzivn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed tempo se vyplatilo, i kdy\u017e teda lezeme jak \u0161neci a n\u011bjak to na n\u00e1s cel\u00e9 dolehlo plnou vahou p\u00edsku a kilometr\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Te\u010f u\u017e jen r\u00e1j mezi lahvemi skv\u011bl\u00e9ho v\u00edna<\/p>\n\n\n\n

SUMMA<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Myl\u00e1\u010dkov\u00e9, asi bych v\u00e1m m\u011bl shrnout, jak\u00fd to putov\u00e1n\u00ed bylo, \u017ee jo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Inu, nen\u00ed to Camino, je to prost\u011b turistick\u00e1 cesta po pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed. To byl asi hlavn\u00ed k\u00e1men \u00farazu, resp. nenapln\u011bn\u00fd o\u010dek\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed. A uzn\u00e1v\u00e1m, \u017ee to je m\u016fj probl\u00e9m. Akor\u00e1t touhle optikou tu cestu posuzuju.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tak\u017ee\u2026 ne\u010dekejte \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd velk\u00fd zdraven\u00ed a srde\u010dnosti. Prost\u011b v\u011bt\u0161ina lid\u00ed, co jsme potkali, v\u00e1m ani neodpov\u00ed na pozdrav. Jde si tak ka\u017ed\u00fd s\u00e1m pro sebe. Dost lid\u00ed to nav\u00edc nechod\u00ed cel\u00fd a j\u00e1 jim vlastn\u011b trochu rozum\u00edm, i kdy\u017e si \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m, \u017ee je to jednou Vicentina<\/em>, tak by se to m\u011blo j\u00edt a\u017e k mysu sv. Vincenta, i kdy\u017e ten \u0159ekn\u011bme  p\u0159edposledn\u00ed \u00fasek p\u0159ed mysem je fakt hnusnej.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nen\u00ed tu nic jako poutnick\u00fd ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. Naopak, ubytko je vesm\u011bs dost mastn\u00fd, proto\u017ee civilizace spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 hlavn\u011b v pl\u00e1\u017eov\u00fdch koupac\u00edch a surfa\u0159sk\u00fdch bydlen\u00edch. N\u011bkolik tis\u00edc za noc je \u00fapln\u011b norm\u00e1ln\u00ed (extr\u00e9m byla nab\u00eddka p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed za 35 tis\u00edc), ale o\u010dima poutn\u00edka, kter\u00fd chce postel a sprchu a r\u00e1no vypadnout, je to nenorm\u00e1ln\u00ed. Chcete-li to tedy pojmout jako putov\u00e1n\u00ed, doporu\u010duji stan. To v\u00e1m z\u00e1rove\u0148 umo\u017en\u00ed i flexibiln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u00fapravu etap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chozen\u00ed v p\u00edsku je fakt vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed. Chozen\u00ed nahoru a dolu po pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed taky. Nepodce\u0148te to.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e1vleky do p\u00edsku se hod\u00ed a funguj\u00ed. H\u016flky v\u00e1m dodaj\u00ed stabilitu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Te\u010f v listopadu fungovalo je\u0161t\u011b dost podnik\u016f i na pl\u00e1\u017e\u00edch, ale rad\u0161i si moc nemalujte, \u017ee co p\u011bt kil\u00e1k\u016f n\u011bco bude. Ve vs\u00edch a m\u011bstech (je jich jen p\u00e1r) jsou ve\u0159ejn\u00e1 p\u00edtka a vesm\u011bs funguj\u00ed. Bistra a kav\u00e1rny jsou \u010dasto za\u0159\u00edzen\u00e9 na surfa\u0159e a dovolenk\u00e1\u0159e, tak\u017ee otev\u00edraj\u00ed a\u017e v dev\u011bt nebo pozd\u011bji. Rann\u00edm pt\u00e1\u010dat\u016fm, ostatn\u011b, kdo vydr\u017e\u00ed sp\u00e1t ve stanu dlouho, to m\u016f\u017ee komplikovat r\u00e1na. Vst\u00e1vat s t\u00edm, \u017ee na nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed kafe a zape\u010den\u00fd chleba je to 14 km, m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt trochu mrzut\u00fd. Ale d\u00e1 se. Jsem toho \u017eivouc\u00edm d\u016fkazem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ceny jsou plus m\u00ednus v\u0161ude stejn\u00e9 (pivo kolem 3 EUR, tosta\/sande \u010dili toast nebo sendvi\u010d \u010dili zape\u010den\u00e9, a\u017e v\u00e1m m\u00e1slo pote\u010de po brad\u011b, nebo such\u00e9 kolem 3,5-4 EUR, kafe 1,2-1,5 EUR). Ob\u010das (sp\u00ed\u0161 vz\u00e1cn\u011bji) n\u011bkde na pl\u00e1\u017ei d\u00e1l od civilizace ul\u00edtnou (extr\u00e9m bylo pivo za 6 EUR). J\u00eddlo jsme s sebou netahali, jen p\u00e1r pohotovostn\u00edch ty\u010dinek. Voda nebyla probl\u00e9m, v\u017edycky b\u011bhem dne n\u011bkde doberete.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Koup\u00e1n\u00ed v oce\u00e1nu je sp\u00ed\u0161 takov\u00e9 oplachov\u00e1n\u00ed, bo vlny jsou slu\u0161n\u00e9 a teplota v listopadu u\u017e nen\u00ed nijak l\u00e1kav\u00e1, le\u010d upocen\u00e9 a utahan\u00e9 t\u011blo v\u00e1m pod\u011bkuje a no\u017eky zaplesaj\u00ed. P\u0159ed Almograve jsme potkali aj funk\u010dn\u00ed venkovn\u00ed pr\u00e1delnu, kde se dalo p\u0159ed vstupem do obce p\u011bkn\u011b opl\u00e1chnout.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Toaletn\u00ed pap\u00edr a ubrousky! Pro\u010d o tom p\u00ed\u0161u? Proto\u017ee to je mor t\u00fdhle cesty, ale vlastn\u011b trochu i obecn\u00fd mor stezek v krajin\u011b. Na Rota Vicentina potk\u00e1te nes\u010detn\u011bkr\u00e1t upozorn\u011bn\u00ed, \u017ee si toale\u0165\u00e1k m\u00e1te odn\u00e1\u0161et a \u017ee je to odpad. Asi bych nebyl tak p\u0159\u00edsnej, v\u017edy\u0165 komu se chce ve vedru nosit na batohu pou\u017eitej toale\u0165\u00e1k, \u017ee jo? Ale! U\u017e ve Star\u00e9m z\u00e1kon\u011b v knize pokyn\u016f z\u00e1kaz\u016f a p\u0159\u00edkaz\u016f Deuteronomium se ve 23. kapitole p\u00ed\u0161e: \u201eVn\u011b za t\u00e1borem bude\u0161 m\u00edt vyhrazen\u00e9 m\u00edsto, kam bude\u0161 chodit na stranu. Mezi sv\u00fdm n\u00e1\u0159ad\u00edm bude\u0161 m\u00edt kol\u00edk. Ne\u017e si venku d\u0159epne\u0161, vyhrabe\u0161 j\u00edm d\u016flek a sv\u00e9 v\u00fdkaly zase p\u0159ikryje\u0161.<\/em>\u201c Na Rota Vicentina se chod\u00ed vesm\u011bs v p\u00edsku, tak\u017ee ta podoba pou\u0161tn\u00edmi n\u00e1rody je jasn\u00e1, vyhrabat d\u016flek jde snadno a zakr\u00fdt v\u0161e, v\u010detn\u011b toale\u0165\u00e1ku, kter\u00fd je dnes u\u017e docela obstojn\u011b rozlo\u017eiteln\u00fd, je to nejmen\u0161\u00ed, co m\u016f\u017eete ud\u011blat pro p\u0159\u00edrodu a vzhled cel\u00e9 stezky. B\u00edl\u00e9 kapesn\u00ed\u010dky a toale\u0165\u00e1ky tak nemus\u00ed vl\u00e1t na ka\u017ed\u00e9m ke\u0159i. A ano, chodit na stranu<\/em> se ne\u0159\u00edk\u00e1 jen tak, znamen\u00e1 to j\u00edt stranou, tedy trochu d\u00e1l od stezky, \u017ee jo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nejv\u00edc l\u00edbila prvn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st od severu, tak t\u0159i dny pochodu. U\u017e\u00edv\u00e1te si kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed a p\u00edsek v\u00e1s je\u0161t\u011b tolik ne\u0161tve, i kdy\u017e tam jdete v podstat\u011b furt p\u00edskem. Podobn\u011b hezk\u00fd, m\u00ed\u0148 p\u00edskov\u00fd, ale zase v\u00edc nahoru a dol\u016f jsou \u010d\u00e1sti na konci, \u00faseky mezi Sagres a Luz. Mys sv. Vincenta je kr\u00e1sn\u00fd, ale tam si m\u016f\u017eete zajet busem ze Sagres a pochodit si to kolem, ani\u017e byste museli tou hnusnou \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed z Vila do Bispo. Berte to jako tip, pokud se v\u00e1m to nechce j\u00edt cel\u00e9. J\u00e1 bych v\u00e1m to dokonce doporu\u010dil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ur\u010dit\u011b to bude cel\u00fd barevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed na ja\u0159e, budou orchije a \u010desneky a bude to zelen\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. V l\u00e9t\u011b na to zapome\u0148te, bude to k nep\u0159e\u017eit\u00ed, v\u011bt\u0161ina je beze st\u00ednu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Celkov\u011b to bylo n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd, ale osv\u011b\u017euj\u00edc\u00ed, u\u017e jsem pot\u0159eboval zase j\u00edt n\u011bco del\u0161\u00edho. Osobn\u011b nem\u00e1m r\u00e1d takov\u00fd to \u017eeb\u0159\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1n\u00ed typu nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017en\u00ed trek<\/em>, tak\u017ee tohle o tom nenap\u00ed\u0161u, by\u0165 kr\u00e1sn\u00fd m\u00edsta tam bezesporu jsou a r\u00e1no, kdy\u017e mlha tekla z pevniny do oce\u00e1nu, bylo prost\u011b neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fd. A to p\u0159esto, \u017ee tahle rann\u00ed vlhkost v\u00e1m tot\u00e1ln\u011b zm\u00e1\u010d\u00ed stan jako n\u011bjak\u00fd lij\u00e1k. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed jsme to zvl\u00e1dali p\u0159es den dycky n\u011bkde dosu\u0161it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

D\u00edky <\/a>K\u00e1jo, \u017ees m\u011b taky n\u011bkam vyt\u00e1hl, p\u0159e\u017eils to se mnou a neshodili jsme se z \u00fatesu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jo, a taky, \u017ee jsme m\u011bli neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fd \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed na po\u010das\u00ed, v\u010detn\u011b dne\u0161n\u00edho, t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 posledn\u00edho \u00fanikov\u00e9ho letu p\u0159ed Charlesem, kter\u00fd zas\u00e1hl Portugalsko. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed to vypad\u00e1, \u017ee snad v\u00edtr nebyl tak \u0161\u00edlen\u00fd a probl\u00e9my p\u016fsob\u00ed hlavn\u011b mega intenzivn\u00ed sr\u00e1\u017eky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

PS: p\u0159\u00edpravy na bou\u0159i Charles vypadaly, alespo\u0148 okem turisty zodpov\u011bdn\u011b. Jednak p\u0159i\u0161ly informativn\u00ed SMS v\u0161em v oblasti, ani\u017e bychom se museli registrovat v n\u011bjak\u00e9m syst\u00e9mu, a t\u0159eba v Lisabonu vy\u010dlenili n\u011bkolik stanic metra na nocleh pro lidi bez domova. Ehm\u2026 mo\u017en\u00e1 by n\u00e1m v tom metru bylo l\u00edp, ne\u017e v tom hostelu\u2026 Ale o tom zas n\u011bkdy jindy.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

DEN 1 | PORTO COVO Mezi Arakisem a Caladanem. V\u00fdhledy z\u00e1vratn\u011b dechberouc\u00ed, vlny bu\u0161\u00ed a bu\u0161\u00ed. Slunko pe\u010de a schovat se nen\u00ed kam. P\u00edsek, p\u00edsek, p\u00edsek… Nev\u011b\u0159te pr\u016fvodc\u016fm. Nen\u00ed to \u00fapln\u011b easy, bo ten p\u00edsek v\u00e1m fakt prov\u011b\u0159\u00ed nohy. Ale ob\u010derstvovny, kter\u00e9 u\u017e m\u011bly b\u00fdt zav\u0159en\u00e9, je\u0161t\u011b jedou a zakl\u00ednadlo sagr\u0161 zn\u00e1me u\u017e z Camina. … <\/p>\n

Pokra\u010dovat ve \u010dten\u00ed „Rota Vicentina | Fisherman’s trail | Trilho dos Pescadores“<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[49,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4877","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cesty","category-uncategorized"],"yoast_head":"\nRota Vicentina | Fisherman's trail | Trilho dos Pescadores - Koz\u00ed notes<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2026\/11\/13\/rota-vicentina-fishermans-trail-trilho-dos-pescadores\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"cs_CZ\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Rota Vicentina | Fisherman's trail | Trilho dos Pescadores - Koz\u00ed notes\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"DEN 1 | PORTO COVO Mezi Arakisem a Caladanem. V\u00fdhledy z\u00e1vratn\u011b dechberouc\u00ed, vlny bu\u0161\u00ed a bu\u0161\u00ed. Slunko pe\u010de a schovat se nen\u00ed kam. P\u00edsek, p\u00edsek, p\u00edsek… Nev\u011b\u0159te pr\u016fvodc\u016fm. Nen\u00ed to \u00fapln\u011b easy, bo ten p\u00edsek v\u00e1m fakt prov\u011b\u0159\u00ed nohy. 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