{"id":947,"date":"2018-03-22T17:43:02","date_gmt":"2018-03-22T16:43:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/?p=947"},"modified":"2018-04-04T12:30:40","modified_gmt":"2018-04-04T11:30:40","slug":"selsky-baroko-v-karibiku","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/2018\/03\/22\/selsky-baroko-v-karibiku\/","title":{"rendered":"Selsk\u00fd baroko v Karibiku"},"content":{"rendered":"

Je p\u016fl \u0161est\u00fd a brejl\u00edm do stropu. Hu\u010d\u00ed klimatizace. Kokrhaj\u00ed kohouti. Poprv\u00e9 za\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m trochu v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed \u010dasov\u00fd posun sm\u011brem k del\u0161\u00edmu dni. Ten v\u010derej\u0161\u00ed m\u011bl o p\u011bt hodin v\u00edc. N\u011bco v\u00e1m o n\u011bm nap\u00ed\u0161u.<\/p>\n

Je to tu trochu jako na jiho\u010desk\u00e9 vesnici. Takov\u00fd (selsk\u00fd) kreolsk\u00fd baroko. Ov\u0161em na p\u0159edm\u011bst\u00ed Amsterdamu.<\/p>\n

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N\u00e1b\u0159e\u017e\u00ed z\u00e1livu sv. Anny. Nejfotografovan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st Willemstadu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Willemstad je trochu Amsterdam. Ostatn\u011b jsme v Nizozemsk\u00e9m kr\u00e1lovstv\u00ed. Cura\u00e7ao je sice nez\u00e1visl\u00e9, s vlastn\u00ed vl\u00e1dou a m\u011bnou, ale architektura prozrazuje stalet\u00ed koloni\u00e1ln\u00ed dr\u017eavy. Domy na n\u00e1b\u0159e\u017e\u00ed a v mal\u00e9m centru jsou vysok\u00e9, \u00fazk\u00e9, v\u010detn\u011b tr\u00e1m\u016f na st\u011bhov\u00e1n\u00ed n\u00e1bytku um\u00edst\u011bn\u00fdch ve \u0161t\u00edtu. Le\u010d \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 pohledov\u00e9 zdivo. V\u0161echno je barevn\u00e9. Pastelov\u00e9 i j\u00e1sav\u00e9 barvy. Modr\u00e1, zelen\u00e1, \u010derven\u00e1, \u017elut\u00e1, oran\u017eov\u00e1, r\u016f\u017eov\u00e1…K tomu b\u00edl\u00e9 \u0159\u00edmsy jako ze \u0161leha\u010dky. Tatsuya Tanaka fot\u00ed netradi\u010dn\u00ed pohledy na v\u011bci. Miniatury. Mal\u00e9 figurky ly\u017euj\u00ed na homol\u00edch cukru, po vysypan\u00fdch \u010dipsech putuje karavana velbloud\u016f. Ve Willemstadu si m\u00edsty p\u0159ipad\u00e1m jako v takov\u00e9 fotografii. Proch\u00e1z\u00edm se po ob\u0159\u00edm dortu mezi marcip\u00e1nem a \u0161leha\u010dkou.
\nJsme ale v Karibiku, tak\u017ee mezi tou sladkost\u00ed je taky b\u00edda. Sem tam ruina, kde \u0161leha\u010dka u\u017e d\u00e1vno opadala, zabordelen\u00fd dvorek, mo\u010d\u00ed p\u00e1chnouc\u00ed uli\u010dka. Obchody s podivn\u00fdmi hadry. Na co se to obl\u00e9k\u00e1, ot\u010de? U n\u011bkter\u00fdch model\u016f m\u00e1me z\u00e1chvaty sm\u00edchu. Mezi t\u00edm rozhozen\u00e9 bary s hlu\u010dnou, ale kr\u00e1sn\u011b tane\u010dn\u00ed, muzikou. Bary, jejich\u017e jedinou nab\u00eddkou je zpravidla pivo v plechovce a kola. P\u0159esto je tu ru\u0161no. M\u00edstn\u00ed se bav\u00ed. Sv\u011btlo poskytuje velk\u00e1 lednice s n\u00e1poji a blikaj\u00edc\u00ed sv\u011bteln\u00e9 \u0159et\u011bzy.
\nMimo centrum, na druh\u00e9m b\u0159ehu kan\u00e1lu, je \u010dtvr\u0165 Otrobanda. Tedy Druh\u00fd b\u0159eh. Z centra tam vede pontonov\u00fd most, kter\u00fd se otev\u00edr\u00e1 pro pr\u016fjezd ob\u0159\u00edch zaoce\u00e1nsk\u00fdch lod\u00ed. Kousek d\u00e1l je pak most silni\u010dn\u00ed. Ten p\u0159eklenuje m\u011bsto ve v\u00fd\u0161ce. D\u016fvodem jsou op\u011bt lod\u011b.
\nOtrobanda je ta jiho\u010desk\u00e1 vesnice. Barevn\u00e9 domky koloni\u00e1ln\u00edho stylu. N\u011bkter\u00e9 i patrov\u00e9, zpravidla v\u0161ak p\u0159\u00edzemn\u00ed a mal\u00e9. Op\u011bt vedou syt\u00e9 j\u00e1sav\u00e9 barvy. To bude focen\u00ed\u010dko.
\nM\u00e1me hlad. U mostu je typick\u00e1 holandsk\u00e1 hranolk\u00e1rna. P\u011bkn\u011b do kornoutku s n\u011bjakou majdou. Na v\u00fdb\u011br jich je asi 8.
\n„Co to je ta pinda?“
\n„Pineapple.“
\nOk, to je divnost, to zkus\u00edm. Uk\u00e1\u017ee se, \u017ee pinda nen\u00ed pineapple, ale peanuts. Tedy ara\u0161\u00eddy.
\nOno se tu mluv\u00ed, krom angli\u010dtiny a holand\u0161tiny, p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm papiamentem. Vezmete n\u011bkolik jazyk\u016f, hod\u00edte je do mix\u00e9ru a \u0161up… pozn\u00e1v\u00e1te vlivy portugal\u0161tiny, \u0161pan\u011bl\u0161tiny, ale i angli\u010dtiny… tak\u017ee \u0159idi\u010d v autobuse v\u00e1m n\u011bkter\u00e9 \u010d\u00edslovky \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 \u0161pan\u011blsky, jin\u00e9 anglicky. Z\u00e1m\u011bna ananasu za bur\u00e1k je tedy snadn\u00e1…<\/span><\/p>\n

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Most kr\u00e1lovny Juliany je jedin\u00fdm silni\u010dn\u00edm mostem, kter\u00fd spojuje m\u011bstsk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti Otrabanda a Punda. Pontonov\u00fd most kr\u00e1lovny Emmy je ur\u010den pouze pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed, cyklisty a mopedy.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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\u00dapravn\u00e9 barevn\u00e9 domky ve \u010dtvrti Otrobanda, typick\u00fd v\u00fdjev z hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta Willemstad.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Barva mus\u00ed b\u00fdt! Chud\u0161\u00ed domky ve \u010dtvrti Otrobanda. V\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00e1 dr\u016fbe\u017e, zpravidla sp\u00ed\u0161e sly\u0161iteln\u00e1, zde ov\u0161em kohout v pln\u00e9 par\u00e1d\u011b.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Z proch\u00e1zky po m\u011bst\u011b…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Op\u011bt Karibsk\u00fd Amsterdam – n\u00e1b\u0159e\u017e\u00ed z\u00e1livu sv. Anny, Willemstad.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Pontonov\u00fd most kr\u00e1lovny Emmy, barevn\u00e9 domy n\u00e1b\u0159e\u017e\u00ed a m\u011bstsk\u00e1 pevnost, dnes s\u00eddlo ministerstva vnitra.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Most kr\u00e1lovny Emmy v noci duhov\u011b z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Je p\u016fl \u0161est\u00fd a brejl\u00edm do stropu. Hu\u010d\u00ed klimatizace. Kokrhaj\u00ed kohouti. Poprv\u00e9 za\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m trochu v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed \u010dasov\u00fd posun sm\u011brem k del\u0161\u00edmu dni. Ten v\u010derej\u0161\u00ed m\u011bl o p\u011bt hodin v\u00edc. N\u011bco v\u00e1m o n\u011bm nap\u00ed\u0161u.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[77],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/947"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=947"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/947\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1057,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/947\/revisions\/1057"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=947"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=947"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cozynotes.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=947"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}